sk8erdude10230

so not to long ago my water pump went out in my rb25det and had no other problems besides high water temps, so i replaced water pump along with timing belt and tensionerand idler pully. set timing and drove the car arounmd for a few days didnt have any problems it drove amazing at low boost 8psi and high boost 14psi then aout 3 days later i drive to ork ahd no problems on the way there or anything then get out and come back out when i got off and noticed a puddle of oil underneath car..... then proceded to drive home becouse the puddle wasnt to bad. i get home an jack front of car up nd notice oil leaing from somhwere in the lower front timing belt cover. steadily dripping down my harmonic balancer. also noticed oil all over my wtepump, alternator, bassicly everywhere in my engine bay. then i put more oil in the car becouse i only have one car to drive and noticed my oil prssure and water temp are both steady, oil pressure on the interstate is 50psi normal drivcing and 75psi in boost no signs of lost oil pressure not even at idle whereits sitting at 25psi at idle. water temp gauge reads 215-220 degrees n interstate but car drives fe so i assume the gaugeis reading off and i have zero problems. the thing that gets me is i have been adding oil every other day since just beocus ei have no options atm becouse i have to work. and noticed car becomes more slugish and my egt's r around 1400 on the interstate. i proceded to add oil stop leak and it helped a little bit the more i drove it but still running into problms with the oil leak istead of a massive puddle underneath the car i have a puddle maybe 2"x2" after driving long distances. the thing that gets me is why is it getting more slugishif it isnt loosing oil pressure. and water temp is steady. i checked oil level after driving it for 3 days with the stopleak and its barely below the max line.

MY QUESTION IS WHY IS I GETTING MORE SLUGGISH WHEN ENTERING BOOST. ONCE IT PULLS OPSI VAC. IT STARTS FEELING LIKE A SLUG AND MY EGT'S R HIGH. BUT BEFORE IT DIDNT DO THAT AT ALL.

ANY POSSIBILITIES ANYON COULD FIX IT FOR A DECENT PRICE.

murphy660

stop-leak? really...

that's a bad idea

why not replace the front main seals instead of wasting money on oil constantly.

i'll save ya the headache i got 1,000$ for it.

didn't read all of your post. got to replaced timing belt, and now sluggish. soo it's probably out of time


EDIT!!! I see the motor is now "fs" so who cares let someone else deal with it aha

edit x2 you put stop leak in a newly built motor?

Hijacker

The sluggishness could be attributed to a boost leak. I don't know what you had to dismantle to get the water pump out and the timing belt. I do remember that RBs have the CPS on the front of the exhaust cam, so you have to remove it to pull the timing belt cover. It's possible your CPS slipped or was never timed in properly as well. A buddy of mine had something similar happen to his SR a few months ago. The bolts for CPS were never tightened, and the car started walking on its timing messing with its on boost performance.

And +1 hojillion for replacing the main oil seal. When that seal goes, the oil tends to get flung all over the engine bay by the crank pulley, hence why everything is coated in oil now.

sk8erdude10230

that makes the most logical sence. but i replaced the seal a after i posted this becouse i was getting agrivated with fucking with it. so the leak should go away but im going to run 15w40 since its ungodly hot for some reason rightnow so that should help alo and i do feel like the cas may of slipped timing under drving it due to cas bolts nto being tightened enough. but i did do the timing correctly with the timing light and all and had it at 15 degress like it should and it ran awsome.

btw i put engine for trade not for sale. becouse i dont lie the rb yes it is ungodly nice but it gets annoying fucking with them becouse ima sr20 person it isjust harder to fuck with then a sr and i wouldnt mind having a ls1.... no i will not sell it for 1k becouse u ignorant fuck the intae manifold alone could be sold for 600.... and u cant even touch a rb25 longblock for less then 800.....

sk8erdude10230

when replacing water pump i had to remove radiator, belts, unbolt alt, remove cas, then remove harmonic balancer, remove timing case uppr and lower then remove belt and tensioner along with idler pully to do water pump so i set everything abck according to the marks it ran like a dream but i see what your saying the cps could have slipped under driving and gradually moved out of timing therefor causing it to be slugish but engine has zero vacume leaks i already tested everything i just feel like im going to reset my timing on the cas and hit it with the timing light and when its at 15 im going to tighten the bolts down so they do not move.