help with build?
Thread Starter
DZZZ NUTTZZZ
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 378
Likes: 0
From: va
help with build?
hello im JAy
thx for reading this
i have a 95 civic coupe
im runimg stock rite now but its been turbo'd for 2months
i want to beef up the bottom
i want to bore it out to i think it was .50 over
d16a6 block stock i want to build it up for more HP
i have
v-tec head
t25 turbo
log manafold
and more goodys
nice set up it runs good
for the new set-up
what kind of rods should i use?
rods inner diameter? what bearings?
crank dememsions? what bearings?
thrust bearings?
do i need to get a better timing belt or is stock good?
what kind of(for low conpresion) head gasket should i get?
since i want to bore it out..
what size bore should i do?
what size pistons should i get? what kind?
low conpresion?
should i get the crank, machined? knifed? edged?
will i need block support/guard?
wich is better e-man or hondata?
do u know where i can get the software for the hondata?
i have both rite now
anything else?
will add more info when im not half a-sleep
thx for reading this
i have a 95 civic coupe
im runimg stock rite now but its been turbo'd for 2months
i want to beef up the bottom
i want to bore it out to i think it was .50 over
d16a6 block stock i want to build it up for more HP
i have
v-tec head
t25 turbo
log manafold
and more goodys
nice set up it runs good
for the new set-up
what kind of rods should i use?
rods inner diameter? what bearings?
crank dememsions? what bearings?
thrust bearings?
do i need to get a better timing belt or is stock good?
what kind of(for low conpresion) head gasket should i get?
since i want to bore it out..
what size bore should i do?
what size pistons should i get? what kind?
low conpresion?
should i get the crank, machined? knifed? edged?
will i need block support/guard?
wich is better e-man or hondata?
do u know where i can get the software for the hondata?
i have both rite now
anything else?
will add more info when im not half a-sleep
All-Motor Street Car
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 828
Likes: 0
Re: help with build?
Let me try to answer all of your questions;
-look for +.020 mm when you go to buy the pistons
-Rods you have two choices
*Ls rods (must take them to machine shop to be resized)
*Eagle rods (must have block notched at machine shop)
-purchase ACL race bearings (comes with thrust washers)
-as said above, .020mm larger piston (which means your bore is also a little more than .020 larger than stock...you machinist will measure p/w for you)
-look for a final compression of 9.0:1 as possible (for a beginner this is pretty bullet proof, esp. on FMU)
-Have the crank micro polished and that is all. knife edging is not needed, and contrary to popular belief, you don't balance inline 4 motors' cranks
-block guards are up to you...the dragva crowd of 'know it alls' will say yes, but from experience I don't recommend one. Cooing issues are a common problem with most block guards. If you decide to do it anyway, the quard MUST MUST MUST be installed before your bore/hone.
-hondata will work fine, so will crome. contact a tuner to get this done
Depending on the money you want to spend, I highly recommend head studs on d series motors. they have a tendency to lift the head under boost. This is a good start for you, good luck. And try to research some of this stuff yourself. It's really cool to know what other people are telling you what to do
-look for +.020 mm when you go to buy the pistons
-Rods you have two choices
*Ls rods (must take them to machine shop to be resized)
*Eagle rods (must have block notched at machine shop)
-purchase ACL race bearings (comes with thrust washers)
-as said above, .020mm larger piston (which means your bore is also a little more than .020 larger than stock...you machinist will measure p/w for you)
-look for a final compression of 9.0:1 as possible (for a beginner this is pretty bullet proof, esp. on FMU)
-Have the crank micro polished and that is all. knife edging is not needed, and contrary to popular belief, you don't balance inline 4 motors' cranks
-block guards are up to you...the dragva crowd of 'know it alls' will say yes, but from experience I don't recommend one. Cooing issues are a common problem with most block guards. If you decide to do it anyway, the quard MUST MUST MUST be installed before your bore/hone.
-hondata will work fine, so will crome. contact a tuner to get this done
Depending on the money you want to spend, I highly recommend head studs on d series motors. they have a tendency to lift the head under boost. This is a good start for you, good luck. And try to research some of this stuff yourself. It's really cool to know what other people are telling you what to do
Thread Starter
DZZZ NUTTZZZ
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 378
Likes: 0
From: va
Re: help with build?
Let me try to answer all of your questions;
-look for +.020 mm when you go to buy the pistons
-Rods you have two choices
*Ls rods (must take them to machine shop to be resized)
*Eagle rods (must have block notched at machine shop)
-purchase ACL race bearings (comes with thrust washers)
-as said above, .020mm larger piston (which means your bore is also a little more than .020 larger than stock...you machinist will measure p/w for you)
-look for a final compression of 9.0:1 as possible (for a beginner this is pretty bullet proof, esp. on FMU)
-Have the crank micro polished and that is all. knife edging is not needed, and contrary to popular belief, you don't balance inline 4 motors' cranks
-block guards are up to you...the dragva crowd of 'know it alls' will say yes, but from experience I don't recommend one. Cooing issues are a common problem with most block guards. If you decide to do it anyway, the quard MUST MUST MUST be installed before your bore/hone.
-hondata will work fine, so will crome. contact a tuner to get this done
Depending on the money you want to spend, I highly recommend head studs on d series motors. they have a tendency to lift the head under boost. This is a good start for you, good luck. And try to research some of this stuff yourself. It's really cool to know what other people are telling you what to do
-look for +.020 mm when you go to buy the pistons
-Rods you have two choices
*Ls rods (must take them to machine shop to be resized)
*Eagle rods (must have block notched at machine shop)
-purchase ACL race bearings (comes with thrust washers)
-as said above, .020mm larger piston (which means your bore is also a little more than .020 larger than stock...you machinist will measure p/w for you)
-look for a final compression of 9.0:1 as possible (for a beginner this is pretty bullet proof, esp. on FMU)
-Have the crank micro polished and that is all. knife edging is not needed, and contrary to popular belief, you don't balance inline 4 motors' cranks
-block guards are up to you...the dragva crowd of 'know it alls' will say yes, but from experience I don't recommend one. Cooing issues are a common problem with most block guards. If you decide to do it anyway, the quard MUST MUST MUST be installed before your bore/hone.
-hondata will work fine, so will crome. contact a tuner to get this done
Depending on the money you want to spend, I highly recommend head studs on d series motors. they have a tendency to lift the head under boost. This is a good start for you, good luck. And try to research some of this stuff yourself. It's really cool to know what other people are telling you what to do
Thread Starter
DZZZ NUTTZZZ
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 378
Likes: 0
From: va
Re: help with build?
Let me try to answer all of your questions;
-look for +.020 mm when you go to buy the pistons
-Rods you have two choices
*Ls rods (must take them to machine shop to be resized)
*Eagle rods (must have block notched at machine shop)
-purchase ACL race bearings (comes with thrust washers)
-as said above, .020mm larger piston (which means your bore is also a little more than .020 larger than stock...you machinist will measure p/w for you)
-look for a final compression of 9.0:1 as possible (for a beginner this is pretty bullet proof, esp. on FMU)
-Have the crank micro polished and that is all. knife edging is not needed, and contrary to popular belief, you don't balance inline 4 motors' cranks
-block guards are up to you...the dragva crowd of 'know it alls' will say yes, but from experience I don't recommend one. Cooing issues are a common problem with most block guards. If you decide to do it anyway, the quard MUST MUST MUST be installed before your bore/hone.
-hondata will work fine, so will crome. contact a tuner to get this done
Depending on the money you want to spend, I highly recommend head studs on d series motors. they have a tendency to lift the head under boost. This is a good start for you, good luck. And try to research some of this stuff yourself. It's really cool to know what other people are telling you what to do
-look for +.020 mm when you go to buy the pistons
-Rods you have two choices
*Ls rods (must take them to machine shop to be resized)
*Eagle rods (must have block notched at machine shop)
-purchase ACL race bearings (comes with thrust washers)
-as said above, .020mm larger piston (which means your bore is also a little more than .020 larger than stock...you machinist will measure p/w for you)
-look for a final compression of 9.0:1 as possible (for a beginner this is pretty bullet proof, esp. on FMU)
-Have the crank micro polished and that is all. knife edging is not needed, and contrary to popular belief, you don't balance inline 4 motors' cranks
-block guards are up to you...the dragva crowd of 'know it alls' will say yes, but from experience I don't recommend one. Cooing issues are a common problem with most block guards. If you decide to do it anyway, the quard MUST MUST MUST be installed before your bore/hone.
-hondata will work fine, so will crome. contact a tuner to get this done
Depending on the money you want to spend, I highly recommend head studs on d series motors. they have a tendency to lift the head under boost. This is a good start for you, good luck. And try to research some of this stuff yourself. It's really cool to know what other people are telling you what to do
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