help with build?
11-17-2006, 08:59 PM
#1
DZZZ NUTTZZZ
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help with build?
hello im JAy
thx for reading this
i have a 95 civic coupe
im runimg stock rite now but its been turbo'd for 2months
i want to beef up the bottom
i want to bore it out to i think it was .50 over
d16a6 block stock i want to build it up for more HP
i have
v-tec head
t25 turbo
log manafold
and more goodys
nice set up it runs good
for the new set-up
what kind of rods should i use?
rods inner diameter? what bearings?
crank dememsions? what bearings?
thrust bearings?
do i need to get a better timing belt or is stock good?
what kind of(for low conpresion) head gasket should i get?
since i want to bore it out..
what size bore should i do?
what size pistons should i get? what kind?
low conpresion?
should i get the crank, machined? knifed? edged?
will i need block support/guard?
wich is better e-man or hondata?
do u know where i can get the software for the hondata?
i have both rite now
anything else?
will add more info when im not half a-sleep
thx for reading this
i have a 95 civic coupe
im runimg stock rite now but its been turbo'd for 2months
i want to beef up the bottom
i want to bore it out to i think it was .50 over
d16a6 block stock i want to build it up for more HP
i have
v-tec head
t25 turbo
log manafold
and more goodys
nice set up it runs good
for the new set-up
what kind of rods should i use?
rods inner diameter? what bearings?
crank dememsions? what bearings?
thrust bearings?
do i need to get a better timing belt or is stock good?
what kind of(for low conpresion) head gasket should i get?
since i want to bore it out..
what size bore should i do?
what size pistons should i get? what kind?
low conpresion?
should i get the crank, machined? knifed? edged?
will i need block support/guard?
wich is better e-man or hondata?
do u know where i can get the software for the hondata?
i have both rite now
anything else?
will add more info when im not half a-sleep
11-18-2006, 06:30 AM
#2
All-Motor Street Car
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Re: help with build?
Let me try to answer all of your questions;
-look for +.020 mm when you go to buy the pistons
-Rods you have two choices
*Ls rods (must take them to machine shop to be resized)
*Eagle rods (must have block notched at machine shop)
-purchase ACL race bearings (comes with thrust washers)
-as said above, .020mm larger piston (which means your bore is also a little more than .020 larger than stock...you machinist will measure p/w for you)
-look for a final compression of 9.0:1 as possible (for a beginner this is pretty bullet proof, esp. on FMU)
-Have the crank micro polished and that is all. knife edging is not needed, and contrary to popular belief, you don't balance inline 4 motors' cranks
-block guards are up to you...the dragva crowd of 'know it alls' will say yes, but from experience I don't recommend one. Cooing issues are a common problem with most block guards. If you decide to do it anyway, the quard MUST MUST MUST be installed before your bore/hone.
-hondata will work fine, so will crome. contact a tuner to get this done
Depending on the money you want to spend, I highly recommend head studs on d series motors. they have a tendency to lift the head under boost. This is a good start for you, good luck. And try to research some of this stuff yourself. It's really cool to know what other people are telling you what to do
-look for +.020 mm when you go to buy the pistons
-Rods you have two choices
*Ls rods (must take them to machine shop to be resized)
*Eagle rods (must have block notched at machine shop)
-purchase ACL race bearings (comes with thrust washers)
-as said above, .020mm larger piston (which means your bore is also a little more than .020 larger than stock...you machinist will measure p/w for you)
-look for a final compression of 9.0:1 as possible (for a beginner this is pretty bullet proof, esp. on FMU)
-Have the crank micro polished and that is all. knife edging is not needed, and contrary to popular belief, you don't balance inline 4 motors' cranks
-block guards are up to you...the dragva crowd of 'know it alls' will say yes, but from experience I don't recommend one. Cooing issues are a common problem with most block guards. If you decide to do it anyway, the quard MUST MUST MUST be installed before your bore/hone.
-hondata will work fine, so will crome. contact a tuner to get this done
Depending on the money you want to spend, I highly recommend head studs on d series motors. they have a tendency to lift the head under boost. This is a good start for you, good luck. And try to research some of this stuff yourself. It's really cool to know what other people are telling you what to do
12-03-2006, 10:03 PM
#3
DZZZ NUTTZZZ
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: va
Posts: 378
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Re: help with build?
Let me try to answer all of your questions;
-look for +.020 mm when you go to buy the pistons
-Rods you have two choices
*Ls rods (must take them to machine shop to be resized)
*Eagle rods (must have block notched at machine shop)
-purchase ACL race bearings (comes with thrust washers)
-as said above, .020mm larger piston (which means your bore is also a little more than .020 larger than stock...you machinist will measure p/w for you)
-look for a final compression of 9.0:1 as possible (for a beginner this is pretty bullet proof, esp. on FMU)
-Have the crank micro polished and that is all. knife edging is not needed, and contrary to popular belief, you don't balance inline 4 motors' cranks
-block guards are up to you...the dragva crowd of 'know it alls' will say yes, but from experience I don't recommend one. Cooing issues are a common problem with most block guards. If you decide to do it anyway, the quard MUST MUST MUST be installed before your bore/hone.
-hondata will work fine, so will crome. contact a tuner to get this done
Depending on the money you want to spend, I highly recommend head studs on d series motors. they have a tendency to lift the head under boost. This is a good start for you, good luck. And try to research some of this stuff yourself. It's really cool to know what other people are telling you what to do
-look for +.020 mm when you go to buy the pistons
-Rods you have two choices
*Ls rods (must take them to machine shop to be resized)
*Eagle rods (must have block notched at machine shop)
-purchase ACL race bearings (comes with thrust washers)
-as said above, .020mm larger piston (which means your bore is also a little more than .020 larger than stock...you machinist will measure p/w for you)
-look for a final compression of 9.0:1 as possible (for a beginner this is pretty bullet proof, esp. on FMU)
-Have the crank micro polished and that is all. knife edging is not needed, and contrary to popular belief, you don't balance inline 4 motors' cranks
-block guards are up to you...the dragva crowd of 'know it alls' will say yes, but from experience I don't recommend one. Cooing issues are a common problem with most block guards. If you decide to do it anyway, the quard MUST MUST MUST be installed before your bore/hone.
-hondata will work fine, so will crome. contact a tuner to get this done
Depending on the money you want to spend, I highly recommend head studs on d series motors. they have a tendency to lift the head under boost. This is a good start for you, good luck. And try to research some of this stuff yourself. It's really cool to know what other people are telling you what to do
12-03-2006, 10:04 PM
#4
DZZZ NUTTZZZ
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: va
Posts: 378
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Received 0 Likes
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Re: help with build?
Let me try to answer all of your questions;
-look for +.020 mm when you go to buy the pistons
-Rods you have two choices
*Ls rods (must take them to machine shop to be resized)
*Eagle rods (must have block notched at machine shop)
-purchase ACL race bearings (comes with thrust washers)
-as said above, .020mm larger piston (which means your bore is also a little more than .020 larger than stock...you machinist will measure p/w for you)
-look for a final compression of 9.0:1 as possible (for a beginner this is pretty bullet proof, esp. on FMU)
-Have the crank micro polished and that is all. knife edging is not needed, and contrary to popular belief, you don't balance inline 4 motors' cranks
-block guards are up to you...the dragva crowd of 'know it alls' will say yes, but from experience I don't recommend one. Cooing issues are a common problem with most block guards. If you decide to do it anyway, the quard MUST MUST MUST be installed before your bore/hone.
-hondata will work fine, so will crome. contact a tuner to get this done
Depending on the money you want to spend, I highly recommend head studs on d series motors. they have a tendency to lift the head under boost. This is a good start for you, good luck. And try to research some of this stuff yourself. It's really cool to know what other people are telling you what to do
-look for +.020 mm when you go to buy the pistons
-Rods you have two choices
*Ls rods (must take them to machine shop to be resized)
*Eagle rods (must have block notched at machine shop)
-purchase ACL race bearings (comes with thrust washers)
-as said above, .020mm larger piston (which means your bore is also a little more than .020 larger than stock...you machinist will measure p/w for you)
-look for a final compression of 9.0:1 as possible (for a beginner this is pretty bullet proof, esp. on FMU)
-Have the crank micro polished and that is all. knife edging is not needed, and contrary to popular belief, you don't balance inline 4 motors' cranks
-block guards are up to you...the dragva crowd of 'know it alls' will say yes, but from experience I don't recommend one. Cooing issues are a common problem with most block guards. If you decide to do it anyway, the quard MUST MUST MUST be installed before your bore/hone.
-hondata will work fine, so will crome. contact a tuner to get this done
Depending on the money you want to spend, I highly recommend head studs on d series motors. they have a tendency to lift the head under boost. This is a good start for you, good luck. And try to research some of this stuff yourself. It's really cool to know what other people are telling you what to do
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