Save yourself the head ache of an oil leak and do it the right way. Weld or braze it on and you should never have a problem. Do it half ass and it could fail, have had to fix it for people before. It will cost more in the long run to do things half ass.

 

First off, what motor is this? I know that 99-00 D16y8 uses aluminum oil pan. So, a simple mig welder will not work. Tig or brazing is the best option.

Position the fitting from top to bottom can be generic. It has to be high enough to where it will be above the normal oil level for continous drainage. Otherwise, the oil return hose will always have oil inside. Remember that turbos are "dry" sump design. Oil must drain.

There is no generic positioning from left to right. It should be placed on the most convenient and efficient way. You have to consider the position of the downpipe and keep it away from that as far as possible to prevent the return line from wear and radiant heat.

The oil return line must be positioned to where it will freely flow oil back to the oil pan under gravity..... So, the line must be in an angle to drain. At the very max, parallel to the ground.... but that is borderline.

If you are local to me, stopby my house and I will show you what I mean....

 

You forgot the headaches part too!

 

IF its Steel you can use a mig welder, but most of the vtec d-series engines came with an aluminum oil pan, thats why I was saying welding isnt always an option (unless you have access to a tig of course)

 

Well in that case, most aluminum pans are thick enough to actually tap threads into..

I have seen people punch steel pans to have a threadable surface too..