subs/amp killing battery/alternator
00 Si Type-r
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: 757
Re: subs/amp killing battery/alternator
yea, just get an optima battery. make sure its the yellow top because thats the one designed for audio. i think its a thicker gel and holds it longer. i have had my system that puts out 3000/rms 1000 jus playing for lik 40 mins and no battery problems..
loves quervo
Joined: Feb 2006
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From: 757
Re: subs/amp killing battery/alternator
3000 huh just because the sticker says so doesn't mean thats what it actually generates
Registered member
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: VB
Re: subs/amp killing battery/alternator
Thanks for the great info! I think I am going to buy another battery just to be on the safe side. I will do more research on it when I am ready in a couple months. Till then I won't push my system to the limit. I have a 4 channel 125x4 rms amp and a 1000watt rms mono amp so its pretty demanding
A cap isn't going to prolong the life of the battery, batteries just age and the lead grid plates break under mechanical strain and vibration over time. As long as you're not consuming power faster than you can replenish it with the alternator, you'll be fine. So for example, you don't want to be draw a continuous 50 amps with the amplifiers and only give back 30 with the alternator because you'll be draining the battery. You can buy another battery or more for the price of a cap.
A cap can sometimes help with dimming but that's about all it does. Amps have enough bulk input capacitance that they often don't have much use for a big external cap unless they are at the end of a long wire run.
Conversely, you have no idea that the car is only 125 HP even though it has a 4" exhaust. This what happens sometimes when you go with the fuse ratings.
You really have no idea of what the amp puts out though, because you don't have any way to accurately measure it. So whether you believe the marketing hype or not, you don't have any way to know if it is true or not. You certainly can't tell with your ears, or how "hard it hits" (I hate that phrase). So yes, if you're sizing everything downstream to be able to handle the max possible current that the amp can draw, fuse ratings would work. You're just never going to be reaching those current levels, and you have no idea how much headroom is build into those fuse ratings, so no matter what you're just guessing.
Also, see above post on the non-existence of RMS power.
A cap can sometimes help with dimming but that's about all it does. Amps have enough bulk input capacitance that they often don't have much use for a big external cap unless they are at the end of a long wire run.
Conversely, you have no idea that the car is only 125 HP even though it has a 4" exhaust. This what happens sometimes when you go with the fuse ratings.
You really have no idea of what the amp puts out though, because you don't have any way to accurately measure it. So whether you believe the marketing hype or not, you don't have any way to know if it is true or not. You certainly can't tell with your ears, or how "hard it hits" (I hate that phrase). So yes, if you're sizing everything downstream to be able to handle the max possible current that the amp can draw, fuse ratings would work. You're just never going to be reaching those current levels, and you have no idea how much headroom is build into those fuse ratings, so no matter what you're just guessing.
Also, see above post on the non-existence of RMS power.
Racetracks
Joined: Nov 2002
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From: How long is a piece of string?
Re: subs/amp killing battery/alternator
There really isn't much need for a yellow top with a 600 watt amp, and a red top is a better starting battery. There really isn't much use for a deep cycle (yellow top) battery unless you're planning on using a lot of power with the car off, or tons of power for short amounts of time with the engine on. After all, if you're drawing more average power (vs time) than your alternator can put out, it really doesn't matter what battery you have. You're going to drain it no matter what.
︻╦╤─
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Va Beach
Re: subs/amp killing battery/alternator
With the exception of what Fabrik has stated (because I believe he is likely the only one e to know "push pull" would have to do with any of this), this thread is full of fail. PMW would likely mean something to him as well (now that I look at his "title"). <grin>
00 Si Type-r
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From: 757
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