dead fkin on ,this guy knows what hes talking about.

 

use a seperate battery for the audio system.

 

And charge it with...?

If you start adding batteries, you aren't doing anything except adding batteries. They still have to be charged, and you're still at the mercy of what the stock alternator can support, but now you have extra charging loads.. If you add an isolator so that you don't draw off of the main (starting) battery, you're stuck with at least a half volt voltage drop across the isolator, so you're handicapping yourself even further.
So what are you actually gaining by adding an extra battery?

If you have a single battery in good condition, everything will work out fine. That's what this thread is all about after all. It sounds like the OP's battery is ready to be replaced.

 

How is your power wire hooked up? I seen ghetto hook ups to altenators insted of batteries, this could cause drain directly to charging system considering stock amperage is at most 90 amps rated on your altenator. I have 2 Kicker l7's in a ported box with a Kicker zr1000, a red top optima with a stock altenator and the only thing that happens is lights dim at night. I would check your connections.

 

Little secret: The alternator is always directly connected to the battery... The only thing not-so-ideal about going directly to the alternator is that then you're stuck with whatever size cable going between the battery and the alternator, which could be a slight bottleneck. So if you have, say, 8 gauge cable between the battery and alternator, and 4 or 2 gauge back to the amps from there, that 8 gauge cable would be a bottleneck for any current going to the battery. Really though, if the cable is large enough, the worst thing you're doing is adding extra cable length to the system.

There's nothing ghetto about that though, especially if you upgrade the cable between the battery and alternator. In fact, that's what you're really doing when you relocate a battery to the trunk..

 

I think the problem is solved. Battery it is, if you all want to learn something about audio systems and impedance and amp/sub wiring, start a thread.

 

ok, im the OP, and my battery was fully charged twice and it died each time after. Crazy part is, two different advanced auto's told me battery is fine, then finally today, they tested it, and said that it needs to be replaced.

replaced battery, but im hesitant to put my system up to my new battery...is it safe?

 

Hmm. This may go a little deeper than the battery.. Could be an alternator problem. What's the charging voltage when the car is running? Did they ask you about getting your alternator tested when you went to Advanced?

Could be a ground problem too, but not likely unless you are having problems starting the car, etc. The starter takes a lot more current than your amp does..

 

pops tested alternator. he said it was good, and on his little meeter it was at 13.99...volts? im not sure, but he said the alternator was fine. with this new battery i have, the car starts fine, anbd everything. i let it sit for about an hour, adn the car still starts.

 

See how it flies, and keep an eye out for any new problems. A fresh battery and good alternator should give you a couple of years of happiness with that amp.