JDMtoDeath

Ok so, i'm definitely not new to turning wrenches or honda's/acura's or anything so don't go too hard on me about my lack of intelligence. I was wondering, i always hear people talk of different ECU's such as p72, p28, p61 or what have you and I really don't know what the different number's stand for or what the difference is. I've never had an ECU tuned or anything, and i could probably find this info on the internet.. but i'm sure i'd better understand it from someone on here, please enlighten me...

EDIT: What are the pro's and con's... say for like my car a 2000 DC LS.

MORE IMPATIENT

the numbers are part of the identification number of the ecu. different models came with different ecu's .

there are pros and cons to some ecu's.obd 1 ecus have been historically easier to modify and have been pretty much completely figured out by the aftermarket. most obd2 ecu's like yours cant be socketed for an aftermarket tuning system, they can be ran perfectly fine with a piggyback tuning system like an apexi afc, but not with a system like hondata or crome. they do however make ecus that do have the socketed portion for your car but they can get quite expensive since your buying an entirely new ecu. But the answer to that cost crisis is you can always get an obd2- obd1 conversion harness to make your car run on an obd1 or non obd ecu that can be socketed and ran with an aftermarket system. Also remember different year obd2 systems are differeniated beetween obd2a and obd2b. the pinout is different so if you ever got a conversion harness just make sure you get the correct one for your year. The aftermarket tuning world for hondas is awesome and theres ways around just about everything. All ecus arent "swappable", different years have different plugs and conversion harness's are needed, you dont want to go running a type r motor with your non vtec integra ecu, different fuel ,maps and functions are what run your car and since things arent the same they arent interchangeable. theres alot of arguments over which ecu's are acceeptable to swap out, etc etc. do your research and make the best decision, and of course get a tuning system and change it anyway, haha..

hope this helps.

example: copy and pasted from hondata.

PG7 : 86-89 Integra (86-87 vac advance, 88-89 electronic advance)
PM5 : 88-91 Civic/CRX DX
PM6 : 88-91 Civic/CRX SOHC Si
PM7 : 89-91 DOHC ZC (JDM 'EF' ECU)
PM8 : 88-91 CRX HF
PR2 : 89-91 ZC (Euro)
PR3 : 89-91 JDM B16A EF8/9
PR3 -J00 or J51 : 92 JDM Integra B16A EF8/9
PW0 : 89-91 JDM B16A EF8/9 DA6-XSi
PR4 : 90-91 Integra LS/GS
PS9 : 88-91 4 door Civic EX Auto
P05 : 92-95 OBD-1 Civic CX
P06 : 92-95 OBD-1 Civic DX
P07 : 92-95 OBD-1 Civic VX
P08 : 92-95 OBD-1 Civic D15 JDM
P0A : 94-95 OBD-1 Accord EX
P13 : 93-95 OBD-1 Prelude Vtec
P14 : 93-95 OBD-1 Prelude Si (non Vtec)
P27 : 92-95 OBD-1 EG JDM Civic 1600 sohc
P28 : 92-95 OBD-1 Civic Si/Ex
P30 : 92-95 OBD-1 DelSol DOHC Vtec Si/EG SiR
P54-G31 : 1997 Honda Accord 1.8 LS
P61 : 92-93 OBD-1 Integra GSR
P72 : 94-95 OBD-1 Integra GSR
P72 : 96-00 OBD-2 Integra GSR
P73 : 96-00 OBD-2 Integra Type-R (JDM & USDM)
P74/75: 92-95 OBD-1 Integra LS/GS
P75 : 96-00 OBD-2 Integra LS/GS
P2N : 96+ OBD-2 Civic HX Coupe
P2P : 96+ OBD-2 Civic EX Coupe
P2E : 96+ OBD-2 Civic DX Coupe
P2M : 96+ OBD-2 NZ Civic SOHC VTEC
P2T : 99+ OBD-? Civic Si Coupe
P5P : 97-00 OBD-2 Prelude Type-S (JDM ECU)
PBA : 97+ US Acura 1.6EL
PCT : 98+ JDM ITR / CTR
PCX : 99+ OBD-? S2000

ADHD kid

since we are on this i gotta gsr swap with a p28 ecu and im not running what i should ive got a couple of bolt ons and im only putting dwn 155hp and i should be at 190 with what i got i would think. do you think if i got a p72 and got it chipped would that help me out alot?

MORE IMPATIENT

when you say a couple bolts on what you do mean ?, unless you have a built gsr with high compression pistons, a cylinder head thats had some work done.really good cams,a good intake system, a really nice header and an impeccable tune, your not gonna put down 190, period,end of story. If you have stock gsr with a header, an intake and some other little things you might see 160-170 MAX. you dont need to swap your ecu out if you put an aftermarket tuning system in it as the p28(if its obd1) is a socketable ecu. if not, then yes i would swap out the ecu and run the stock gsr ecu. fully built all motor b series motors with nothing but the best parts and combos put down 190 +. hell some 2.0 built motors with 13.1+ compressions with massive cams and itbs and a sick ass hitech header start to max out at 200-210. your stock gsr isnt gonna put down 190, no matter how good your bolt ons are....unless its some juice or a turbo, ha. you can get some good power from good cams, intake mani and a nice header, people have gained really good power from investing in good parts that are proven.

JDMtoDeath

That helped me alot.. much appreciated.

ADHD kid

well i got an itr header,2 1/2 apexi exhaust,aem v2 cold air intake,a blox 68 mm throttle body, first gen skunk2 intake manifold,sir tranny, stage 1 clutch exeddy(sp) and a skunk2 short through shifter and thats it

MORE IMPATIENT

depending on the dyno you used, you should be relatively happy with that number of 155considering you havent opened up the motor and started messing with the internals, Remember when you find out the STOCK hp rating of your motor. THAT IS POWER AT THE CRANK. not the wheels. Dynomometers measure power at the wheels. If you have a stock rotating assembly, heavywheels, stock flywheel, etc, you can almost guarantee a 10-12% drivetrain loss from stock hp rated at the crank. Considering your running a stock bottom end, stock head, stock cams. 155 really isnt that bad. I had an ls vtec built from the bottome up only making 170, i have friends who have 7-10k dollars in there b series all motor setups and only made 185-190. That is still really good for an naturally aspirated b series. The only way your gonna see 190 with that gsr without opening up the motor is to spray it or boost it.

Fabrik8

Is that ECU tuned yet? A stock P28 is for a D16Z6, so there may be some power to be freed up with maps that are for your engine. If you have the Skunk2 manifold that gets rid of the dual runner setup, that P28 will work every bit as well as a P72 IF you get it chipped and tuned with for your engine. Hardware-wise the only difference between those two ECUs (besides the stock program) is that the P72 has a knock sensor board and an IAB (secondary butterfly) output for the GSR manifold. You don't have that manifold any more, so there isn't any reason to use a P72 (which, like you said, needs to be chipped anyway) so a chipped P28 will work great.

All of those things will add power, but not a lot. A few HP for the manifold, maybe one or two for the exhuast, 2 or 3 for the CAI, a few with the manifold, and not really anything for the throttle body (the stock TB isn't a weak point with the amount of power you make, so a bigger one doesn't do much). The best thing you can do is get tuned if you haven't already.

ADHD kid

thanks guys for your input i dropped it off at t.p.e he is gonna check everything over and possably put my ecu on chrome. but thanks again for your help