skunk2 intake manifold
If you look around you could probably get a used header and then just sell it when you go Turbo....that will help
As far as adjusting the cam anymore I would say w/out a dyno to know for sure maybe another 1-2 degrees is all I would personally do....but just my $.02
Good luck...and do share some pics once turboed
As far as adjusting the cam anymore I would say w/out a dyno to know for sure maybe another 1-2 degrees is all I would personally do....but just my $.02
Good luck...and do share some pics once turboed
the hatch is gone. now i have a 93 teg, dunno what im puttin in it, but its what i have wanted for a while, maybe ill keep the ls and go turbo, or b16 turbo, dunno yet. I will def post pics.
just put back your stock intake manifold. Paying for a new throttle body is ridiculous. Yours is plenty adequate even when you are running turbo. Ofcoarse if you have the skunk2 you will lose bottom end torque because of the anatomy of the intake manifold design. The runners must be shorter and fatter than your stock, thus making it rev up faster, and higher.
Originally Posted by In the Works
I should be installing mine tomm. Hopefully see a good bit of diffrence. So far its a D16Y8 and it has DC Sports 4-2-1 headers, Apex-i N1 Cat back exhaust, Chipped P28 ECu with Skunk 2 Chip, Walbro 255 Fuel pump, Iceman CAI and Nology Hot Wires. When i put the Intake manifold on i am Also putting on an OBX hi-Flow Fuel Rail and Adjustable FPR. Need to Hit the Ignition soon, Gonna be getting too much fuel and air and not enough spark.
Hey I heard that the skunk2 manifold's suck on the d series. There is no room for the electronic idle control valve on the back of the manifold. It pushes it into the fire wall making motor mount inserts a must.
I heard the jg intake manifold is way better because it fits better and they turned the throttlebodys position to distribute the air flow more evenly into each cylinder.
Considering the amount of hp you are putting to the wheels I wouldn't think that any kind of fuel or ignition system upgrade would be beneficial. Your stock rail should flow fine at normal fuel pressure (39~42 psi). Your injectors should be somewhere around 240cc's and should be good to about 200hp without boost (of course by then they will probably be close to 100% duty cycle). Your fuel pump will be fine unless you are running other then stock fuel pressure. Even with boost your fuel system wont need much until you start hitting the 250whp range. At that point injectors and some form of fuel management should be about all that you need if your running low boost (low being 5~10psi). As far as needing more spark, same thing applies. You wont need to do more then use quality plugs and wires until you hit about 300hp or start revving past ~8900rpm, at which point a Capacitive Discharge Ignition might be useful. Look at the Intgra Type R. It uses basically the same setup for fuel and ignition as a GSR (and possibly a LS) and its pushing 190~200hp and revving really high. Just my $.02. I know that doesn't help you with your current problem, but my point is that your money would be better spent on other upgrades before you attack your fuel or ignition system.
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