help......chrysler techs????
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corona connessuer
Joined: Nov 2002
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From: GUAM
Re: help......chrysler techs????
Check to make sure the gas cap is sealing. It's looking at a vacuum leak somewhere in the emissions/fuel system. It could be the LDP actually quit. But usually, this code is given when the fuel cap is left off. Also possible a vacuum line collapsed, or is cut. But, that's just a good starting point.
When you clear the codes, it should not immediately come back on, unless the electrical connector for the LDP has a short, or something is providing an electrical fault, which would show up immediately. Nothing else (besides electrical system components) really tests until a few seconds after the motor is running.
When you clear the codes, it should not immediately come back on, unless the electrical connector for the LDP has a short, or something is providing an electrical fault, which would show up immediately. Nothing else (besides electrical system components) really tests until a few seconds after the motor is running.
Slowest HRC Member
Joined: Jul 2007
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From: Hampton Roads
Re: help......chrysler techs????
First thing to do is spray down the connector with some MP-50 or similar (Mopar's version of WD40/Dielectric Grease/use for everything spray)
Basically, hit up the electrical connectors in the system with some QD Electric cleaner, then dielectric grease. If the wires ohm out, and that doesn't fix it, then you can figure component failure. It's actually about a 50/50 chance it's in the wiring, rather than the part.
That article is kind of cool. Of course, if it's getting no feedback, it detects an open circuit that's supposed to be complete. Same if it has a short, and detects no difference in potential.
You may also want to check your ground straps, to make sure they are in place and tight. This can cause rather random glitches, especially in a Chrysler vehicle. They aren't always adequately grounded from the factory.
Basically, hit up the electrical connectors in the system with some QD Electric cleaner, then dielectric grease. If the wires ohm out, and that doesn't fix it, then you can figure component failure. It's actually about a 50/50 chance it's in the wiring, rather than the part.
That article is kind of cool. Of course, if it's getting no feedback, it detects an open circuit that's supposed to be complete. Same if it has a short, and detects no difference in potential.
You may also want to check your ground straps, to make sure they are in place and tight. This can cause rather random glitches, especially in a Chrysler vehicle. They aren't always adequately grounded from the factory.
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