Tire Advise, Brands/Type
wow, +35 offset. i'm running +40, which is the standard for the accord. i know prelude can't fit as much underneath them, but if you are at 35, then maybe you can fit more rubber under there, but just won't be able to turn full lock. but who needs full lock
Actually the 35 offset may prevent me from running the 225s. 225 50s may be too tall and rub the fender. Its going to be close, thats why I'm buying the wheels and tires seperately. I have done a very slight fender role as well as other fender mods to get my street wheels to fit. I run 215/40/18 on the street with a 18x7.5 w/ 42 mm offset. They generally don't rub unless I cross a raised intersection at 50 mph.
Here's what I'm thinking, with the 35 mm offset I will run more than nearly 3/4" wider on each side. Wider stance, good. Because of the width, I may have to go with 205 or 215 (stock is 205). With 205 I will atleast have the same contact patch as last year only the patch is kicked out a little bit. Now to make up for not running wider tires, stickier tires (anything would be stickier than the stocks I ran last year). Perhaps 710s.
I got 2 of the wheels this morning and I must say, 12 lbs = nice. I'm really looking forward to getting back out to run.
Here's what I'm thinking, with the 35 mm offset I will run more than nearly 3/4" wider on each side. Wider stance, good. Because of the width, I may have to go with 205 or 215 (stock is 205). With 205 I will atleast have the same contact patch as last year only the patch is kicked out a little bit. Now to make up for not running wider tires, stickier tires (anything would be stickier than the stocks I ran last year). Perhaps 710s.
I got 2 of the wheels this morning and I must say, 12 lbs = nice. I'm really looking forward to getting back out to run.
i think that the +35 is going to give you a shorter stance than say, a +40. i could be wrong, but according to the link below, that is what it seems.
http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/offset.htm
http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/offset.htm
That link is a little confusing. Think of it this way, the greater the offset the futher out the mounting point is and the larger the amount of wheel that is behind the mounting point. Thus the more wheel that needs to be tucked into the wheel well. A 35mm offset on a 7" wheel sticks out .591" further than that same wheel with a 50mm offset because it has that much less wheel behind the mounting point.
For example a 8.5" wheel with a 100mm offset has nearly 8" behind the mounting point that needs to be tucked into the fender.
I hope that makes it easier to understand.
For example a 8.5" wheel with a 100mm offset has nearly 8" behind the mounting point that needs to be tucked into the fender.
I hope that makes it easier to understand.
you guys seem to know your rubber.... anyways... what about falken ze-512's? I have never autocrossed officially, and i am interested in starting... i dont have the money to buy new rims at the moment, probably wont for a while, since i need a helmet, 3 point harness or better, and so on. so assuming i stick with the stock 14" steelies would 185/60hr14's in the falken do the trick? i do expect some sidewall action since i have to stick with 14's and i know about pumpin up the pressure to around 42 psi and seein what works best from there, just lookin for a little constructive input... its either fix up the boat for the spring or fix up the car for some autocross fun...
I agree with WRXRacer111. Leave the car as is for the first season at least. Before upgrading, try to get as much as you can out of it and learn what it is you need for your car based on track time. If you have upgraded your wheels and tires for the street, use the stocks for racing. They're probably just sitting around in the garage anyway and you won't feel bad if you eat them up.
Originally Posted by 00lude
That link is a little confusing. Think of it this way, the greater the offset the futher out the mounting point is and the larger the amount of wheel that is behind the mounting point. Thus the more wheel that needs to be tucked into the wheel well. A 35mm offset on a 7" wheel sticks out .591" further than that same wheel with a 50mm offset because it has that much less wheel behind the mounting point.
For example a 8.5" wheel with a 100mm offset has nearly 8" behind the mounting point that needs to be tucked into the fender.
I hope that makes it easier to understand.
For example a 8.5" wheel with a 100mm offset has nearly 8" behind the mounting point that needs to be tucked into the fender.
I hope that makes it easier to understand.
ok i was asking because i need 4 new tires anyway... no way my stocks will pass tech insp. at the track, i dont even like driving daily on them lol.. but for the price of new tires almost, i can get a set of 17" eco rims with nitto nt 40 series tires practically new.... so according to the post, i should get these wheels if i want to for daily driving, but use my stock steelies with decent tires for race? i dont mean to bug yall, but im new and very interested... drag is fun, but auto-x just seems like its more 'me', you know ... my car isnt fast enough to compete head to head on a drag track with alot of people, its not meant for drift... auto-x just seems like it would be more fun, and better suited to me. any other suggestions to prep my car for my first auto-x event ? i downloaded a race tech insp. list from the NASA site ... is that pretty much it?





