Tint Removal
Originally Posted by ToyotaTechGeek
peel the tint and use acetone to wipe-down the glass. takes awhile, but removes the glue w/removing the defroster lines. that's how we did it when i worked in a tint shop.
for the side windows, i just used windex & a razor blade
DO NOT USE RAZOR BLADES ON THE BACK GLASS unless you absolutley have to.
1. take a high mill trash bag, big enough to cover the ENTIRE back glass. lay it on the outside and trim it to the shape of your window. allow a 1" border.
2. take your spary bottle of amonia and SOAK the tint ( open the doors and get out quick, you'll see why when you start spraying)
3. take your trash bag and lay it on the wet amonia soaked tint. trying to leave the highest amount of amonia between the trash bag and the tint without leaving big air bubbles.
4. set you car in the sun and leave it there for a few hours. if you cant do that you can use a hair dryer on the outside to SLOWLY warm the window. the idea is to let the heat do most of the work for you. you know when you've hit the perfect temp when you can peel back the trashbag and there's a visible amonia steam.
5. take your trashbag off and pray your tint got soft enough. start at a corner and and start peeling. avoid using the hair dryer to heat things back up. you'll only cause the glue to remain on the glass. pull slowly and watch what your doing. if you see bit of glue starting to stay on the glass stop and change directions. I like to pull at a 45 degree angle then swap to -45 degree angle creating a V shape as i pull.
6. you can use your amonia spayer to mist the glue side some. this might re soften the glue if gets cooled down while you're working it.
7. depending on how old your film is and the quality you should have removed your entire back glass in one piece (not likely though).
8. the painstaking part. removing any remaining glue. the trick to it is keeping it wet. see you can get off with a scotch brite pad first. (make sure you use a fine or ultra fine you can actually scratch the glass) if that doesnt work try you're fingernails (it sucks but not having a defroster sucks worse. ) still not coming off? step to a PLASTIC razor, you can get these at alot of places. i've heard of pople using credit cards at this stage with luck but i have had better luck with the plastic razors.
9. ONLY IF THE STEPS ABOVE HAVE YIELDED NO RESULTS CAN YOU USE STEEL RAZOR. If you take this route you are almost asking for you defroster to not work. you have to be EXTREMELY careful. DO NOT scrape the sma e direction as the defroster. you'll scrape it off and not even know. scrape against the defroster. That way you "feel" the raised edge and know if you about to cut into it.
at all costs be careful and take you time. The rest of windows are pretty much free game. u can use grandmas straight razor on those if you wanted to. the back glass must be handled lightly.
I hope this little tutorial helps.
1. take a high mill trash bag, big enough to cover the ENTIRE back glass. lay it on the outside and trim it to the shape of your window. allow a 1" border.
2. take your spary bottle of amonia and SOAK the tint ( open the doors and get out quick, you'll see why when you start spraying)
3. take your trash bag and lay it on the wet amonia soaked tint. trying to leave the highest amount of amonia between the trash bag and the tint without leaving big air bubbles.
4. set you car in the sun and leave it there for a few hours. if you cant do that you can use a hair dryer on the outside to SLOWLY warm the window. the idea is to let the heat do most of the work for you. you know when you've hit the perfect temp when you can peel back the trashbag and there's a visible amonia steam.
5. take your trashbag off and pray your tint got soft enough. start at a corner and and start peeling. avoid using the hair dryer to heat things back up. you'll only cause the glue to remain on the glass. pull slowly and watch what your doing. if you see bit of glue starting to stay on the glass stop and change directions. I like to pull at a 45 degree angle then swap to -45 degree angle creating a V shape as i pull.
6. you can use your amonia spayer to mist the glue side some. this might re soften the glue if gets cooled down while you're working it.
7. depending on how old your film is and the quality you should have removed your entire back glass in one piece (not likely though).
8. the painstaking part. removing any remaining glue. the trick to it is keeping it wet. see you can get off with a scotch brite pad first. (make sure you use a fine or ultra fine you can actually scratch the glass) if that doesnt work try you're fingernails (it sucks but not having a defroster sucks worse. ) still not coming off? step to a PLASTIC razor, you can get these at alot of places. i've heard of pople using credit cards at this stage with luck but i have had better luck with the plastic razors.
9. ONLY IF THE STEPS ABOVE HAVE YIELDED NO RESULTS CAN YOU USE STEEL RAZOR. If you take this route you are almost asking for you defroster to not work. you have to be EXTREMELY careful. DO NOT scrape the sma e direction as the defroster. you'll scrape it off and not even know. scrape against the defroster. That way you "feel" the raised edge and know if you about to cut into it.
at all costs be careful and take you time. The rest of windows are pretty much free game. u can use grandmas straight razor on those if you wanted to. the back glass must be handled lightly.
I hope this little tutorial helps.
Last edited by allmotorSOHC; Mar 19, 2006 at 05:19 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post








