Rim and Suspension Questions??
Means it won't stick out like you're talking about.
Yes, it can be calculated.....
Put the car on a level surface. Measure the fender height. Jack it up. Remove the wheel. Lower it until the fender is at the original level.
Run a yardstick or straight edge from the fender to the ground. Measure from the outside of the fender, to the mounting surface on the brake rotor, with the rotor level (will require a second jack probably).
This gives you the spacing to get the outside of the wheel, to the outside of the fender.
If this # happens to be 2.4 inches, then what you listed will work.
If it happens to be 3.4 inches, then you'll need about 25 less on the offset, or, a 15 offset. If it was 1.4, you'd need about a 65 offset.
Basically -
Wheel width divided by 2. (4 for 8", 3.5 for 7", etc.)
Subtract measured distance. (Say, 2.8)
3.5 - 2.8 = .7
.7 x 25.4mm = 17.78 offset, or 18mm offset to get even with the outside of the fender.
By lowering the car, you'll be having to add positive camber. This will push the wheel a mm or two further out. That can be measured if you install a camber kit, lower that side the amount the car will sit lower at the fenders on both sides, adjust the centerline of the hub to the tire height, and level the rotor using the camber kit. But face it, that's a lot of work, and a mm or two isn't going to make that much difference generally.
However, others have brought up some very valid points pertaining to the fact the wheels may rub the fenders with those types of clearances. Turning tightly, harsh bumps, etc, may cause issues. I recommend having a professional wheel center recommend a setup that you like the looks of, and their experts say will work with your car well. Many can roll the fenders for you properly to make a setup of your liking work, etc.
But, since you wanted to know, there's some info for you.
Yes, it can be calculated.....
Put the car on a level surface. Measure the fender height. Jack it up. Remove the wheel. Lower it until the fender is at the original level.
Run a yardstick or straight edge from the fender to the ground. Measure from the outside of the fender, to the mounting surface on the brake rotor, with the rotor level (will require a second jack probably).
This gives you the spacing to get the outside of the wheel, to the outside of the fender.
If this # happens to be 2.4 inches, then what you listed will work.
If it happens to be 3.4 inches, then you'll need about 25 less on the offset, or, a 15 offset. If it was 1.4, you'd need about a 65 offset.
Basically -
Wheel width divided by 2. (4 for 8", 3.5 for 7", etc.)
Subtract measured distance. (Say, 2.8)
3.5 - 2.8 = .7
.7 x 25.4mm = 17.78 offset, or 18mm offset to get even with the outside of the fender.
By lowering the car, you'll be having to add positive camber. This will push the wheel a mm or two further out. That can be measured if you install a camber kit, lower that side the amount the car will sit lower at the fenders on both sides, adjust the centerline of the hub to the tire height, and level the rotor using the camber kit. But face it, that's a lot of work, and a mm or two isn't going to make that much difference generally.
However, others have brought up some very valid points pertaining to the fact the wheels may rub the fenders with those types of clearances. Turning tightly, harsh bumps, etc, may cause issues. I recommend having a professional wheel center recommend a setup that you like the looks of, and their experts say will work with your car well. Many can roll the fenders for you properly to make a setup of your liking work, etc.
But, since you wanted to know, there's some info for you.
For the look you want you're going to want between a +15 and +25 depending on tire size, camber, and how low you'll be. You're going to have to go as low as possible to achieve the look you want.
HondaRules!....that is some very excellent information there. I was telling him to check that thread out because he can read what sizes people are running without doing all the work, since it has been done before on his style car...your way is definitely the right way though
.
Means it won't stick out like you're talking about.
Yes, it can be calculated.....
Put the car on a level surface. Measure the fender height. Jack it up. Remove the wheel. Lower it until the fender is at the original level.
Run a yardstick or straight edge from the fender to the ground. Measure from the outside of the fender, to the mounting surface on the brake rotor, with the rotor level (will require a second jack probably).
This gives you the spacing to get the outside of the wheel, to the outside of the fender.
If this # happens to be 2.4 inches, then what you listed will work.
If it happens to be 3.4 inches, then you'll need about 25 less on the offset, or, a 15 offset. If it was 1.4, you'd need about a 65 offset.
Basically -
Wheel width divided by 2. (4 for 8", 3.5 for 7", etc.)
Subtract measured distance. (Say, 2.8)
3.5 - 2.8 = .7
.7 x 25.4mm = 17.78 offset, or 18mm offset to get even with the outside of the fender.
By lowering the car, you'll be having to add positive camber. This will push the wheel a mm or two further out. That can be measured if you install a camber kit, lower that side the amount the car will sit lower at the fenders on both sides, adjust the centerline of the hub to the tire height, and level the rotor using the camber kit. But face it, that's a lot of work, and a mm or two isn't going to make that much difference generally.
However, others have brought up some very valid points pertaining to the fact the wheels may rub the fenders with those types of clearances. Turning tightly, harsh bumps, etc, may cause issues. I recommend having a professional wheel center recommend a setup that you like the looks of, and their experts say will work with your car well. Many can roll the fenders for you properly to make a setup of your liking work, etc.
But, since you wanted to know, there's some info for you.
Yes, it can be calculated.....
Put the car on a level surface. Measure the fender height. Jack it up. Remove the wheel. Lower it until the fender is at the original level.
Run a yardstick or straight edge from the fender to the ground. Measure from the outside of the fender, to the mounting surface on the brake rotor, with the rotor level (will require a second jack probably).
This gives you the spacing to get the outside of the wheel, to the outside of the fender.
If this # happens to be 2.4 inches, then what you listed will work.
If it happens to be 3.4 inches, then you'll need about 25 less on the offset, or, a 15 offset. If it was 1.4, you'd need about a 65 offset.
Basically -
Wheel width divided by 2. (4 for 8", 3.5 for 7", etc.)
Subtract measured distance. (Say, 2.8)
3.5 - 2.8 = .7
.7 x 25.4mm = 17.78 offset, or 18mm offset to get even with the outside of the fender.
By lowering the car, you'll be having to add positive camber. This will push the wheel a mm or two further out. That can be measured if you install a camber kit, lower that side the amount the car will sit lower at the fenders on both sides, adjust the centerline of the hub to the tire height, and level the rotor using the camber kit. But face it, that's a lot of work, and a mm or two isn't going to make that much difference generally.
However, others have brought up some very valid points pertaining to the fact the wheels may rub the fenders with those types of clearances. Turning tightly, harsh bumps, etc, may cause issues. I recommend having a professional wheel center recommend a setup that you like the looks of, and their experts say will work with your car well. Many can roll the fenders for you properly to make a setup of your liking work, etc.
But, since you wanted to know, there's some info for you.
You should run a 205/45/16 at the most. A lot of people run 195/50s or 195/45s for FWD cars on a 8J.
For the look you want you're going to want between a +15 and +25 depending on tire size, camber, and how low you'll be. You're going to have to go as low as possible to achieve the look you want.
HondaRules!....that is some very excellent information there. I was telling him to check that thread out because he can read what sizes people are running without doing all the work, since it has been done before on his style car...your way is definitely the right way though
.
For the look you want you're going to want between a +15 and +25 depending on tire size, camber, and how low you'll be. You're going to have to go as low as possible to achieve the look you want.
HondaRules!....that is some very excellent information there. I was telling him to check that thread out because he can read what sizes people are running without doing all the work, since it has been done before on his style car...your way is definitely the right way though
.Thanks everyone for all this help!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post





. I will let you know what I choose and see what you think. Do you guys know anything about stretching the tires to fit on a 8 inch rim? It sounds unsafe.

