Boosting Advice
Thread Starter
Pulling The Weight
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 783
Likes: 0
From: Virginia
Boosting Advice
Hey everyone,
My friend and me are thinking about boosting a 98 civic pretty soon. But the car has a stock d16 in it right now. What are the best steps and plans to do this ?? What should we replace or get besides the turbo kit ?? I'am really looking for some advice and help. Thanks alot.
My friend and me are thinking about boosting a 98 civic pretty soon. But the car has a stock d16 in it right now. What are the best steps and plans to do this ?? What should we replace or get besides the turbo kit ?? I'am really looking for some advice and help. Thanks alot.
Banned
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 743
Likes: 0
From: Lynchburg, Va
Re: Boosting Advice
255lph fuel pump, 450cc injectors, resistor box, Crome chipped ECU, Vitara 8:5:1 pistons which are (150) and support 350-400whp.SRM h beam rods ($250) and acl main and rod bearings. all ARP bolts head studs and rod bolts. get that bitch to a dyno. and you will be good. i may have left 1 or 2 things out...somone will catch me
Registered Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 341
Likes: 0
From: Billisburg, Va
Re: Boosting Advice
Figure out how much power you're trying to make and how much money you are willing to spend and then post the questions. The answers will vary a hell of a lot depending on what your plans are.
Turbo VTEC-E
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,520
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From: Memphis
Re: Boosting Advice
d-series
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 118
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From: Covington
︻╦╤─
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 937
Likes: 0
From: Va Beach
Re: Boosting Advice
As mentioned, figure out a HP goal and then a budget. But, take your budget and multiply it by two, if you can still afford that good, if not, lower your budget. When boosting you need to anticipate or have money set aside should something go wrong.
Most start with a 280-300 whp goal. My recommendations for this is:
Honda OEM Bearings (ACL bearings are "bling" imo and I trust OEM in my building more than aftermarket)
Crower, Carrilo, Manley or Pauter rods. Many go with Eagle because of the price, however, having built quite a few engines, when you've seen two sets of Eagle rods where the big bore (ie. crankshaft) "side" of the rods are inconsistent of specifications, you tend not to care for them much, especially since a Crankshaft Damper is not available for the D series. If you go Eagle ensure to get the ARP upgrade bolts.
CP, Arias or Wiseco (including Endyne Rollerwaves) pistons preferrably. The consistency of these brand pistons have always appealed to me. Get these .020 over, don't go with a stock bore, the PROPER way to build is bore over and get matching pistons, this will ensure proper ring seating and reduce blow by. Go 9 to 9.5:1 - I prefer 9.5:1 or even 10:1 (not recommended unless your comfortable with your tuner, I am my own tuner so yeah)
A walbro pump is not necessary for a 300whp goal and if the goal increases, thats when I prefer to go with Aeromotive/sump, its expensive, but I rest easy knowing I have a reliable fuel delivery system.
ARP head studs and a Honda OEM HG, Cometic if you -must-.
Go with Chrome since it's essentially free and just as good as Hondata. I prefer Neptune, AEM EMS and Haltech myself, though they co$t money. Get yourself a PLX M-300 wideband, you should have one regardless if you will perform tuning or not. Also ensure you get an EGT as well, its good to monitor your exhaust temps, especially if your ECU decides to retard your timing or if your tuner likes to advance timing to produce power/torque. A boost gauge is common sense. I prefer to have a fuel gauge as well to monitor fuel delivery and oil pressure gauge as well since by the time the stock honda oil pressure dummy light goes on, its typically already too late, especially at high RPM's.
Everyone is going to have of course their own preferences, my intentions aren't to discredit their opinions/preferences, I'm just simply giving mine based on building, racing, etc.
Links were already given to assist you in "turboing" however, technical knowledge is also key if this is your first time "boosting" something. The only tuner I would ever allow to touch my vehicles would be Jeff Evans, as he too has a complete understanding of combustion processes, etc. So read his forums: http://forums.evans-tuning.com/
Most start with a 280-300 whp goal. My recommendations for this is:
Honda OEM Bearings (ACL bearings are "bling" imo and I trust OEM in my building more than aftermarket)
Crower, Carrilo, Manley or Pauter rods. Many go with Eagle because of the price, however, having built quite a few engines, when you've seen two sets of Eagle rods where the big bore (ie. crankshaft) "side" of the rods are inconsistent of specifications, you tend not to care for them much, especially since a Crankshaft Damper is not available for the D series. If you go Eagle ensure to get the ARP upgrade bolts.
CP, Arias or Wiseco (including Endyne Rollerwaves) pistons preferrably. The consistency of these brand pistons have always appealed to me. Get these .020 over, don't go with a stock bore, the PROPER way to build is bore over and get matching pistons, this will ensure proper ring seating and reduce blow by. Go 9 to 9.5:1 - I prefer 9.5:1 or even 10:1 (not recommended unless your comfortable with your tuner, I am my own tuner so yeah)
A walbro pump is not necessary for a 300whp goal and if the goal increases, thats when I prefer to go with Aeromotive/sump, its expensive, but I rest easy knowing I have a reliable fuel delivery system.
ARP head studs and a Honda OEM HG, Cometic if you -must-.
Go with Chrome since it's essentially free and just as good as Hondata. I prefer Neptune, AEM EMS and Haltech myself, though they co$t money. Get yourself a PLX M-300 wideband, you should have one regardless if you will perform tuning or not. Also ensure you get an EGT as well, its good to monitor your exhaust temps, especially if your ECU decides to retard your timing or if your tuner likes to advance timing to produce power/torque. A boost gauge is common sense. I prefer to have a fuel gauge as well to monitor fuel delivery and oil pressure gauge as well since by the time the stock honda oil pressure dummy light goes on, its typically already too late, especially at high RPM's.
Everyone is going to have of course their own preferences, my intentions aren't to discredit their opinions/preferences, I'm just simply giving mine based on building, racing, etc.
Links were already given to assist you in "turboing" however, technical knowledge is also key if this is your first time "boosting" something. The only tuner I would ever allow to touch my vehicles would be Jeff Evans, as he too has a complete understanding of combustion processes, etc. So read his forums: http://forums.evans-tuning.com/
Banned
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 743
Likes: 0
From: Lynchburg, Va
Re: Boosting Advice
Just my opinion...But I dont really think hes looking to spend that much money. just by the way he asked doesnt seemthat way. Why should he go for Forged pistons for $280-300whp? Vitara pistons have proven to goto 400whp. and are $150. on stock bore. You got alot of money listed up there for a D series build..lol..Mannley rods??? damn thats some money man.
Racetracks
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 15,668
Likes: 0
From: How long is a piece of string?
Re: Boosting Advice
Why is it that everyone goes for a big fuel pump right off the bat? I can't say how many N/A and low boost cars out there are running around with an upgraded fuel pump, for no reason at all..
