Ive been around a few turbo cars and i would pesonally build a sleeved b16 they are cheap and they take a beating. Leave the crank alone there is no need to mess with a honda crank except maybe a polish. I recomend a eagle rod for up to 500hp pic a piston je/weisco/cp/arais they will all work fine You can make alot of power on a stock port head just make shure you have a good valve job tell who ever does the head to put a type r style job on it with a 1mm over intake valve add some valve train and bam your done. Okay now here is the important part buy a good turbo gt35r sc61 something along those lines no cheap ebay crap buy a decent intercooler and manifold again no ebay crap then have it tuned very very inportaint oh ya most companys will not sleeve b20 blocks

 

lol you lil nut jumper.... just saying i didnt want to step on your toes cause you made alot of valid points.

in no way to i condone the use of stock rods in a built motor. or a high rpm motor. generally you tear the rod cap off due to shitty little bolts not being up to the task. but yes ive snapped a many right in the middle of the beam. hp doesnt tend to break rods like rpm does. thats alot of inertia and they do have to come to a complete stop and change direction every stroke.

forged rods are definately the answer to this problem, but the point i was more trying to make is lightening the crank, and increasing rod mass is a bad combo. in my personal opinion an inline 4 should never have a lightened crank, not even knife edged. there are better ways to control oil than knife edging the crank. and yes thats what its there for, to cut through the coagulated mist in the crank case. lightening the counter weight puts all the weight to one side of the crank.. the rod journal. 4 cylinders {except for the odd fire cosworth} are 2 up 2 down, not every 90 degrees. so the balance of the crank is all effed up anyways.. just inherent in the design. this is why most inline 4's over 2.0 liters have balance shafts. to cancel out the nasty vibration you feel in ur butt at idle because there is not a damn thing anyone can do about it. most pro engine builders dont even bother balancing a i4 crank... you can weight match the pistons and rods. which is often called balancing. but rarely is the crank spun, drilled/or weighted with mallory to try and get it "in balance" because you cant.

piston squirters is a whole nother ball of wax... sure drag motors eliminate them. but were talking about a street car here. on drag engines they fill the blocks with concrete and only cool the heads. but whats that gotta do with the price of tea in china. squirters help keep the domes cool, to minimize detonation and melting the piston during prolonged sessions of abuse {road race, highway races, running from the cops for 52 miles etc.}

as for ti rods galling the crank... eh thats kinda retarded. if your rod ever comes in contact with the crank you have some SERIOUS issues. like it just spit the rod bearing out the motor. any rod, chromoly, ti, tissue paper whatever will gall the crank if it touches it. we run ti rods in our gt3 engines {single cam ka24, 290ish at the crank} spin 8000 thousand or so rpm for hours at a time. and amazingly enough have no issues... but when something does go wrong you can guarantee both the rods and crank get trashed.

and to make this post yet a little longer... people always preach rod ratio. which is funny cause no one ever said shit till the great "endyne" starting talking about rs ratio and the "perfect" 1.75. i believe what it really boils down to is rod angle and side loading that breaks rods as you transition from going down to going up and vice versa. rs ratio is just a nifty catch phrase of the times.


not that i know anything, these are just my opinions.

 

while i was in the shower just now something clicked..

yellow88 if you are who i think you are, i actually did the machine work to your engine many moons ago.

 

you pussys and your rod ratios you cant spin an ls crank to 10500 maybe some of my old dyno charts are wrong

 

lol you can spin an ls to 10k all you want... but what in the fuck did you do to your head to make power up that high?

just curious... id like to see one of those dyno sheets just to see where power peaked.

 

ask seth

 

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...ZkMzF5NTQx.jpgi usally shifted at 10300 thats where it ran the best

 

thats pretty sweet.... youd figure after it peaked the power would fall off pretty quick, but that thing has a nice flat curve. stays well over 200 all the way out to ur redline. i bet that things fun as shit to drive

keep up the good work man.

oohh..hehe. man what cams you got in that thing? they dont even start workin till 6 grande. its gotta sound evil :-D

 

You thinking of me in the shower really scares me

Did you work at Abacus? because they are the only ones who have ever done machine work for me...that I can think of.


Matt, I never said that you could spin a LS crank to 10k+, just that stock rods don't like it and that it's one of the main reasons B20's let go. Your motor hardly classifies as a stock motor and yes the oh "rod ratio" thingy. I get that when ever I talk about them lol. It's just something that I have come to use when building a motor. It's a two way street. Either you believe in it or you don't.

If you don't mind me asking...why would you shift after 10K when your peak power is at 8700? I mean, I can see that this is a run from 2004, so I'm quite sure that things are different. Wouldn't you want to stay in under the power cruve?

 

where i shifted had alot to do with gearing and where the rpms dropped win i shifted the car whent fast when i reved it high so thats how i drove it