We all know B20s wont last longer than a month while boosted. What the hell was i thinking

 

I've heard they blow up like crazy at say...14psi.

 

id go with the b20 esp if you have money to build it.

 

sell me urs

 

Listen to scott, he's a B20 man. The block is not so much important as to what you do to it. B20's actually have thicker cylinder walls. However the area where the cylinders meet in B20's are thinner than the other B series 81mm bores. This is where you will have 99% of your stock B20 sleeves crack.
As far as not being able to rev a B20 up pass 9k...this is just plain BS. It's in the build. If you try to do it the cheap way...you get exactly what you pay for! To rev any motor this high...and ACTUALLY make power, the power is made in the head. Porting, stonger valves, larger valves, upgraded valve train, the right cams for the build, bigger IM...etc, etc, etc.
To keep the bottom end from coming apart at these high RPMs there are multitude of things you can do. Sleeving, balancing the rotational mass, lightening the rotational mass, beefing up the main caps, Play with longer rods and custom pistons to get a better rod ratio, Forged internals, upgrade oil pump/system, are just a few things that can be done to make power and help any motor stay alive longer.

The bottom line is that a stock B20 will not hold high HP numbers for very long. Power cost money and theres no cheap way around it.
I know that this is more than you asked for...but sometimes I can't shut my mouth

 

thanks everyone

 

why bore the hell out of it? the little gain you get is hardly worth having thin ass cylinder walls, not to mention using up all your over bores on the first build.

b20b is crap. gsr bottom end is girdled and has piston squirters from the factory. much more of a performance engine right from the get go. take a gsr, put some dartons {or whatever} in it and ur done. of course you could just get a dart block and be the envy of all your neighbors.

before yellow88 jumps my nuts i better clarify. im not real sure on the deck height of the b20, but if its no taller than a gsr whynot just drop the b20 crank in the gsr block? rpms killing a motor usually happens in the head not in the bottom end.. valve float whatever. or they take a b20 and vtec it without ever putting a vtec oil pump in there. stupid mistake #2

he mentioned alot of things that are very viable to strenghten the motor, but putting in a girdle and all that machine work costs an assload...esp if you want it done right.

hes totally right about hp = dollars. we call it cubic dollars around these parts.

lightening the rotational mass is a scary proposition. since most people will try and lighten the crank, this causes it to twist and sometimes break. big rods are heavy, and exert more force on the crank. lightening the crank makes the problem worse so run titanium rods would work to lighten the spinning mass without having negative side effects.

 

What he said. A few mm overbore will only net you a few cubic inches (or CCs rather), you'll never even notice the difference. Always go with the strongest shortblock you can and just pressurize it for all it's worth. Turbos = torque once they start spooling, just don't go too big like everyone seems to like to do. A standard T3 is good to 300 HP, and will spool insanely fast on such an engine. T3s are also about 150 dollars for a good used one. If you do go bigger, get a Holset turbo, but that would most likely be Honda-block-exploding territory for any stock block Honda since Holsets are good for 550 HP or so and 40+ psi.

Anyway, if you have the money for titanium rods you'd be better off getting a Dart block and putting in good forged steel rods. It's my experience that cranks in a four cylinder will take far more abuse than any other part. Heck, the ancient Ford 2.3 has a cast crank, but it's been put through over 700 HP by some people, only side effect is the bearings get completely trashed from all the power, crank comes out just fine. I'd worry about your pistons more than anything, and maybe some rods. But hey, what do I know, I'm just a Ford 2.3 Turbo guy.

 

agreed, LS FTW

 

LMFAO...jump my nuts...I've never been accused of doing that!

I totally agree about boring on a stock B20 sleeve no matter how minimal. You just don't chance some things!
Both the B18a/b & B20's have a 212mm deck height versus the 211mm of the B18C's. This is not so much a big deal, unless you are custom building and looking for every millimeter possible. I wouldn't say that the B20 block are crap. But I will argee that in their stock form the B20's are not a good as a B18C+ block.
In some motors oil squirters are not necessary if the pistons skirts are coated. No oil squirters...or capped off oil squirters, are usually seen in pro drag motors to keep oil pressure up and to keep oil which equals weight...off the bottoms of the pistons and rods.

Once again I will agree that the head does cause engine failures with floating valves at high rpms or poorly built engines with high compression and big lobe cams that were not properly installed. However, a lot...and I will repeat...alot of B18a/b and B20's failures come from that fact that the bottom ends fail because of the OEM rods snapping at high rpm's due to the faster piston speed of the 1.54 rod ratio where the rod snaps because of the inertia of the piston during the transition from the upward motion to a downward motion while at TDC. Forged rods are the only way to go when dealing with a high reving motor.

Lightening a crank should only be done by a machine shop and more importantly...someone who knows hondas!!! If the motor is done right, then there will be no twisting of the crank. Remember that building a motor is about matching this to that...or, for every cause, there is an effect. This means that using the big dick theory where "bigger is better" does not always work with building engines like it does with it does with your girlfriend
As far as titanium rods goes...be careful. Titanium rods are dashit but are very expensive and if not installed correctly can cause severe galling on the crank. Do not think for a second that ti rods are plug and play like off the shelf forged rods.

Hope I did jump to hard