Best car audio
i have (listed below) and i love it all except my head unit, but its old thats why
sony cd player /10 disc (crap shit)
Polk Db componet set (tweeters, 4 speakers)
12in Kicker competition
alpine v12 amp (speakers)
alpine mrf series amp (sub)
sony cd player /10 disc (crap shit)
Polk Db componet set (tweeters, 4 speakers)
12in Kicker competition
alpine v12 amp (speakers)
alpine mrf series amp (sub)
I didn't go into the importance of the head unit, because its importance is very limited next to the importance of the speakers. It's very easy to make an amplifier that has exceedingly low distortion (compared to a speaker) at normal, healthy listening levels. Go with a trusted brand for reliability and construction concerns, and get only the options you need. Don't expect that the expensive head units with hundreds of features will sound any better than the less expensive units with fewer features.
Forgive me if I don't take you up on your challenge, as I'm not concerned enough with commercial products to justify researching them enough to make a specific recommendation.
I get my parts here:
http://www.madisound.com/catalog.html
here:
http://www.zalytron.com/
or here:
http://www.partsexpress.com/
My favorite brand is Seas for mids and tweeters, Peerless or Dayton for woofers.
Forgive me if I don't take you up on your challenge, as I'm not concerned enough with commercial products to justify researching them enough to make a specific recommendation.
I get my parts here:
http://www.madisound.com/catalog.html
here:
http://www.zalytron.com/
or here:
http://www.partsexpress.com/
My favorite brand is Seas for mids and tweeters, Peerless or Dayton for woofers.
BTW type r's get muddy at high volumes
i wish people would get off alpine's balls and look at other brands
I didn't go into the importance of the head unit, because its importance is very limited next to the importance of the speakers. It's very easy to make an amplifier that has exceedingly low distortion (compared to a speaker) at normal, healthy listening levels. Go with a trusted brand for reliability and construction concerns, and get only the options you need. Don't expect that the expensive head units with hundreds of features will sound any better than the less expensive units with fewer features.
Forgive me if I don't take you up on your challenge, as I'm not concerned enough with commercial products to justify researching them enough to make a specific recommendation.
I get my parts here:
http://www.madisound.com/catalog.html
here:
http://www.zalytron.com/
or here:
http://www.partsexpress.com/
My favorite brand is Seas for mids and tweeters, Peerless or Dayton for woofers.
Forgive me if I don't take you up on your challenge, as I'm not concerned enough with commercial products to justify researching them enough to make a specific recommendation.
I get my parts here:
http://www.madisound.com/catalog.html
here:
http://www.zalytron.com/
or here:
http://www.partsexpress.com/
My favorite brand is Seas for mids and tweeters, Peerless or Dayton for woofers.
For the most part, those sites don't offer finished products. Plus they are mostly centered around home audio. And you can't just take a home audio design and make it work in a car anyway, because all the road noise will make a speaker system with a flat frequency response sound very thin. You really have to know what you're doing if you're going to pick parts from there and design your own crossovers. Which brings me to another point... never use generic crossovers. Crossovers have to be designed for the specific drivers being used, because every speaker has its own impedance and frequency response curves.
While i dont agree with what MAD DOHC is saying, i understand where hes coming from. that headunit posted at the end of the first page is garbage. I take it that since it dosent sound good, its the cobalt without the pioneer system from the factory, correct?
IF i was going to spend ~600 for a good setup, id do this..
Polk Audio db690 (For rear) - 150
Polk Audio db6750 - 220 or Alpine Type-S SPS171A - 200
I've heard all of these personally, and they all sound VERY good. After that you'll have 230 or more for a headunit. If it were me, I'd spend the extra money and get an Alpine CDA-9820XM (I currently have last years version of this, and I Love it) for about 250, though the Alpine CDA-9856 (I had the older version, and it was good for a basic setup) would go in under your budget. They run for about 200 bucks. For a total of ~630 including shippig/tax, you could have the Polks all around and a nice Alpine headunit. For under 600 you could have the polks all around and the lesser, but NOT bad Alpine headunit.
Hows that setup for under 600 MAD_DOHC? its not the top of the line, but its not at all a bad setup!
IF i was going to spend ~600 for a good setup, id do this..
Polk Audio db690 (For rear) - 150
Polk Audio db6750 - 220 or Alpine Type-S SPS171A - 200
I've heard all of these personally, and they all sound VERY good. After that you'll have 230 or more for a headunit. If it were me, I'd spend the extra money and get an Alpine CDA-9820XM (I currently have last years version of this, and I Love it) for about 250, though the Alpine CDA-9856 (I had the older version, and it was good for a basic setup) would go in under your budget. They run for about 200 bucks. For a total of ~630 including shippig/tax, you could have the Polks all around and a nice Alpine headunit. For under 600 you could have the polks all around and the lesser, but NOT bad Alpine headunit.
Hows that setup for under 600 MAD_DOHC? its not the top of the line, but its not at all a bad setup!
What's good to some is garbage to others. It's all relative. I prefer Focal speakers and Audison amps, but they will not be anywhere near your pricepoint. For a budget system, I prefer the sound of Polks. Remember, what may sound too "bright" or "tinny" to me may be perfect for you. Go listen to a few. Good Luck
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