After the last time did you lose fluid In The reservoir? If your losing fluid you got leak....If not its either the slave or the master.

 

There a 4 ways to bleed a clutch.
1. Take an oil bottle that has a little pump and fill it from the bottom(little metal cans). Little one from autozone works. Fill from the bleeder line on the slave. Make sure you do not put air in when filling this way. It works because air rises.
2. Regular bleed with a person in the car.
3. Motive bleeder.
4. Remove the slave cylinder. Take a block of wood and bolt it to the slave so the end piece is as far in as possible. Then get a helper to do a regular bleed. This is the best way.

 

I think I'll be hooking up a long hose to a pump which will be sitting in a bottle on top of the car. I'll be sure the line is full of fluid prior to hooking it up. From there, I'll connect another line to the upper bleed point and run that hose to a bucket to catch the fluid. With the fluid being pumped into the slave, it will force the flow (and air) out to the upper bleed point. Once I see the air is out, I'll close both bleed points and see if it is any better.

If air gets back in the line again, I'll attribute it to either a bad seal in the master cylinder or perhaps bad thread engagement with the bleeder valves. A bad master cylinder is unlikely though simply because there is no fluid by the rod at the firewall. Normally, a bad seal would cause slight fluid leakage by the pedal but mine is dry.

 

The clutch is probably gone or something worse. Save up till you have money then tow to a mechanic.

 

I've had similar issues on brakes when doing a large chunk of work. Sometimes to fix, do the following. Instead of the standard procedure of pump, hold, open, close, release, do the following;

Open up the bleeder screw, damn near all the way. Remove it if you can, and just pump the crap out of the system until fluid starts coming out clear-ish. Then put the bleeder screw back on and bleed normally. Hope this helps.

 

I suppose I could always replace the bleeders with speedbleeders as well. That would ensure no air would get sucked back in and then I could just pump it all myself. That might be the easier route. The only reason I might go the method I posted above is because air can sometimes be stubborn in our 2 bleeder cars.

 

We assume you've already tried the BIWP fix right?

 

I did the reverse bleed the other day. I definitely got all the air out of the line but it still won't go into gear. I am going to have to measure the amount of movements on the clutch fork as well as the amount the slave piston sticks out when the pedal is depressed. If it is not moving enough, I can pretty much attribute it to a bad master cylinder. It is quite possible that the seal is bad and it just isn't leaking enough to get through the foam and carpet. Either that or there could be a small amount of air coming through a bad seal but it is only getting stuck in the dead space in the master cylinder since it wouldn't take much to collapse the pressure. If the fork is moving the proper distance, I can pretty much bet it is something with the TOB. At least I am narrowing it down.

 

Well, I got it fixed. I test drove it today and everything is working great. I think the truck drivers slipped it like crazy when loading it on and off the truck. My clutch disc is feramic. It's a high torque material that was originally used in tractors back in the day. It has extremely high clamping ability and grip but it doesn't take well to slippage. With high heat, high RPM's, and slipping, the disc will seize to the flywheel. I had to remove the starter and take a paint scraper between the disc and flywheel to pry it off. That is the one good thing about feramic. It can be pried off fairly easily and be ready to go for round 2. I've had it on there for 5 years and never had a problem with it even at the drag strip. Then again, I always dumped it instead of slipping it.

Either way, I'm just glad to be back on the road again.