awsome. I got my car runnin at 4-5pm tonight! A few minor problems though.


While changing the brakes, I broke the bleeder valve on the driver side. anyone know how to fix that? And philip would u be able to help me fix it, or know anyone that will?

Couldn't get my ps belt on so f*n a, I'm driving to VA w/o PS

Exhaust leak? My car is REALLY loud now, not like extremely loud like when I had the cat off almost a year ago, but its considerably louder now. It sounds like I have a small exhaust upgrade.


I think that is all the problems I had

I do need the middle side plastic cover if anyone has one, and the oil pan.

I AM LEAVING FOR VA TOMORROW! *VERY HAPPY* I get to have my christmas now!

 

i thought you did them already


it aint that hard...just make sure the crank is backed off a little from TDC.....else you want to bend some shit.

 

Did the cams? Nope, they were a Christmas gift, maybe you meant timing belt, since I did a head swap? I'm flowing 42lb/min on pump BEFORE cams biatch

Backed off from TDC? Why wouldnt you want it at TDC?

 

Did it break off in the calliper? It would almost be cheaper and a whole lot easier to buy a new calliper. I did the same thing once... I didn't want to try to drill it out and rethread the calliper so I just bough a new one. I think we can get the whole calliper assembly for like $30-40 bucks.

 

think bout it. if you are at TDC, you have two cylinders that have the piston at TDC. meaning...you have two cylinders that are VERY likely to have valve to piston contact if you put the cam in even teh slightest bit off and have to rotate it to get it in time. if you put it a few teeth back at the crank....the pistons are a little lower, and you reduce the risk of bending a valve.

take it to the timing marks, take teh belt off, and then back the crank off about 2-3 teeth. remove your cams, install the new ones, set the cam timing, and then move the crank back to TDC.

install tensioner and you will be fat and happy.


till it breaks. like DSM's do

 

http://www.prostreetonline.com/pso/p...o/4g63cams.asp

Theres the faq I will be using to do this. Seems to me that the belt never leaves the gears so timing shouldnt be interrupted

 

the belt doesnt...so your actual belt/gears will be in time. however....the cams will move when you take the gears off. i dont like to risk bending a valve (i had to fix a few that were damaged by repairs) so i like to back it off a little.


if i recall....in the FSM it says something about backing the crank off a little when installing the head or new cams.


when i get back to VA i will look it up on ALLDATA....but its in there somewhere (at least i recall it being there)

 

Ok anyone here in Roanoke want to hook me up w/ either some cheap red couplings or some stock flexi ic pipe from a dsm that I can cut up and use as a small coupling? I'm gonna take a hacksaw to these pos custom ic pipes and fix my new boost leak where the frame is cutting into the coupling.

Or I'm just going to get a dremel and cut a piece of the body off so that there is enough space.

Which do you guys think I should do? Either way I still need a new coupler/old/good stock ic flexi piece to replace the one that is cut into.


BTW I made it to Roanoke safe My car smells like its burning mad oil. I think I may have left something loose :-\ I HOPE not. Gnight folks and happy new years for those of you who read this late.

 

Ok day TWO of the repair. I've noticed all the water from my overflow tank was completely gone. I noticed when I stopped on my way to VA that the water in it was boiling. My DSMLink is set to show a CEL at 230deg, and it not once went off. I refilled it and it took less than a gallon to fill the radiator part + the overflow tank.

My oil seems to be perfect. I will check it again tomorrow morning to see if anything has happened again, I did not drive my car around alot today. Just all around Valley View and a few other places.

Shoot me if this stupid pump is fuct cuz my bent water pulleys *sigh*

 

you need to fill your coolant and then let the car warm a little and then open the cap and refill it and then let it repeat. You basically must bleed the air out of the system when you are filling your coolant fully like that, one time isnt enough, thats typical.