As far as the cams moving, they are held in place on the gears by the key, so Id imagine they will only go in when they are exactly on time with everything else, since the key must go exactly in. You only do a single cam at a time, so the other gear should stay fairly solid in place, and since the belt is zip tied in multiple location I dont see it moving. I understand its always safer than sorry so I see where you're coming from, I'm just having a mild discussion here.

 

Hey, how are you running those 880cc's and that walbro without a afpr? Everyone keeps telling me to get the afpr, but to install it, I will have to order a bunch of ss lines and other crap to install it.

P.S.

Day 3

Water seems a bit lower and oil seems a bit lower.. duno why oil would be a bit lower. *sigh*

 

think of the cam lobes: at any given point, one of the ramps is going to be applying pressure to a valve spring. that pressure is going to cause the camshaft to rotate opposite the pressure.

i am not saying yea or neigh on the install like that (i have done it before, but i backed the crank off a few teeth) but i have seen what happens when the valves bend on that particular engine...and i would rather do it the way i know then risk it. i do not trust most internet resources.....it is kinda half ass methods from what i see.


BTW...i dont reccomend using RTV on the outer portion of the cam seal. it causes the seal to rotate and pop out sometimes. i use permatex indian head sealant. nasty shit, but it keeps the seal in place and doesnt cause it to pop out.

 

I went ahead and am redoing the entire timing belt assembly. I started doing it the way I had showed you and realized putting the gears back on is just a major PITA, and I felt much safer pulling it all and redoing it.

One thing however. Pulling the cams, I notice on the cam cap #2 on both the intake and exhaust side, it is scored very badly, enough so that you can feel it. The cams are trash now (the 1g ones I was using) and I'm wondering if this was an issue that was on the cams prior to their installation initially that I didnt notice since they werent from this head or my car originally, and perhaps I didnt notice, or if it was an oil starvation issue. Its really concerning me, and I'm going to replace the cam caps if I can before finishing this install. With the new cams going in, I dont want to damage them or anything else so here's my question. I plan on going to the mitsu dealer on monday and ordering new cam caps for the ones that were bad, however the portion of the bearings on the head is slightly scored as well. Not quite as bad as the caps are, but enough that you can slightly feel it. Since the head is aluminum and the cams are iron, will the new cams smooth them out or will they too become scored, and if they become scored how bad is that? Sigh, this is just concerning me right now as I dont want to screw up the brand new 450 dollar cams I just paid for. Any help would majorly be appreciated.

 

you cant get the cam caps seperate. they are machined to fit that block (line honed when cast) if the scoring isnt real bad, i wouldnt worry too much about it. but, i would check to make sure you have no oil restrictions. if its at the rear part of the cams, you could have a plugged port.

 

The scoring is enough that you can feel it with your finger rubbing it across the bearing surface. The surfaces on the head's portion of the bearings isnt all too bad, but the cam caps arent good at all. It is the on the 2nd cam caps from the cam gears, so the one directly over top of cyl #1, on the intake and exhaust side. The guys on the dsmlink forums are also agreeing that you cant just simply buy these caps. The head has all of 1000 miles on it, and thats it, I just had it rebuilt.

 

i dont think you will have issues, but if you had a pic i would feel better telling you that.

 

Ill go ahead and get you some pics in a second here, the cap surfaces are rough enough that if you were to rub your nails across them they would catch in the gouges.

 

I tried taking some pics, however for some reason the camera just simply will not focus AT ALL on the cam caps. I cant get a clear shot for the life of me.

 

Ok, heres a new plan Ive thought up. Tell me what you think about it.

I have a spare set of 2g cams from my old head. The gouges on the bearings are about as deep as what youd imagine 60 grit sand paper might do, so I was almost thinking I might be able to get some super fine emery cloth, and attempt to lightly take out as much of the gouge as possible, just to make it smoother, and then throw the 2g cams into the head and try driving around. Shortly down the road then Id pull the 2g cams and see how the bearings look as well as the cams. My thought was that the cams are hardened steel, where as the head is made of aluminum, so Id imagine the cams should smooth the bearings out slightly am I correct? I figure Id rather have the 2g cams be the guinea pigs than the new FP2's. 2g cams are a dime a dozen.