discussing my wishlist for suspension stuff
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Eat me.
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From: seven eleven plus the fo' six
Re: discussing my wishlist for suspension stuff
Originally Posted by vbspec
Why are you puting money into this car is the first question????
I have to say I have not read the whole thread but from the first few posts I can tell you that you are looking at waisting a ton of cash.
Option 1 on your wish list is fine. I would go with the 16's and run the Falken RT615s in the 205/40/16 size.
that's what i had been thinking of doing
, or maybe the 205/45/16, that extra bit of ground clearence helps when i drive around town
Option 2 is a waist of money at like $200 bucks its going to make that much of a difference on the street or the track.
When i had my front strut bar before, i noticed a great improvemtn in the steering responce, therefore, i'm all
for strut bars, it's just a personal preference i guess
Option 3. VERY important part for the eg chassis!!!! get one
Yep yep, it's definitely going to be on my car
Option 4,& 5 dont bother with. if you want to just give money away I'm a great charity.
I'm no longer going to get the EM racing trunk bars, i may get the C pillar bar, but not the trunk bars, i've decided to wait on password jdm to make the rear cross bar for the trunk for the coupes, then i'm going to get the the package they offer with the ASR subframe thing, 3 point front strut bar, and the rear cross bar
Option 5 get ther rear only!!!!
Why do you recommend to only get the rear?
Derek is right get a roll bar if you are gong to track the car. Do not get harnesses unless you will be tracking the car (Autox is not taking the car to the track). The chassis will be stiffened and the car will be much safer with a bar than some JDM braces.
yea, i want to eventually track the car, it just takes money, thats why its all further down on the list of things to do
If you do plan on tracking you car do all of you needed maintance first.
1 if the master cylnder, calipers, rotors, lines and pads have not been replaced in the last 4-5 years get a new ones.
That's why i was thinking of just going with a brake kit
2 replace you suspension bushings!!! OEM or aftermarket.... Anyone who puts money into a cars suspension over 8-10 years old with out replacing your bushings just built a death trap.
I've read on H-T that the polyurethane bushings are a bad idea on our cars...
3 make sure all bolts on the car are torqued to spec... dont ask!!!!
4 change ALL of your fluids!!!!
5 have fun and be safe
Now if this is just for show do what ever you want but if you are thinking strongly about doing more with the car do it right the first time. Nothing hurts worse than having to pay for something twice.
It's Just My Oppinion and my shitty spelling but I hope it helps
I have to say I have not read the whole thread but from the first few posts I can tell you that you are looking at waisting a ton of cash.
Option 1 on your wish list is fine. I would go with the 16's and run the Falken RT615s in the 205/40/16 size.
that's what i had been thinking of doing
, or maybe the 205/45/16, that extra bit of ground clearence helps when i drive around townOption 2 is a waist of money at like $200 bucks its going to make that much of a difference on the street or the track.
When i had my front strut bar before, i noticed a great improvemtn in the steering responce, therefore, i'm all
for strut bars, it's just a personal preference i guessOption 3. VERY important part for the eg chassis!!!! get one
Yep yep, it's definitely going to be on my car
Option 4,& 5 dont bother with. if you want to just give money away I'm a great charity.
I'm no longer going to get the EM racing trunk bars, i may get the C pillar bar, but not the trunk bars, i've decided to wait on password jdm to make the rear cross bar for the trunk for the coupes, then i'm going to get the the package they offer with the ASR subframe thing, 3 point front strut bar, and the rear cross bar
Option 5 get ther rear only!!!!
Why do you recommend to only get the rear?
Derek is right get a roll bar if you are gong to track the car. Do not get harnesses unless you will be tracking the car (Autox is not taking the car to the track). The chassis will be stiffened and the car will be much safer with a bar than some JDM braces.
yea, i want to eventually track the car, it just takes money, thats why its all further down on the list of things to do
If you do plan on tracking you car do all of you needed maintance first.
1 if the master cylnder, calipers, rotors, lines and pads have not been replaced in the last 4-5 years get a new ones.
That's why i was thinking of just going with a brake kit
2 replace you suspension bushings!!! OEM or aftermarket.... Anyone who puts money into a cars suspension over 8-10 years old with out replacing your bushings just built a death trap.
I've read on H-T that the polyurethane bushings are a bad idea on our cars...
3 make sure all bolts on the car are torqued to spec... dont ask!!!!
4 change ALL of your fluids!!!!
5 have fun and be safe
Now if this is just for show do what ever you want but if you are thinking strongly about doing more with the car do it right the first time. Nothing hurts worse than having to pay for something twice.
It's Just My Oppinion and my shitty spelling but I hope it helps
Yes I race a HONDA!!
Joined: Dec 2002
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From: Va Beach
Re: discussing my wishlist for suspension stuff
Ok to reply to your reply
Option :
1. Cool
2. I just dont think the password front bar is worth the coin I would go with the neuspeed one its a little cheaper
3. good
4&5 is still a waist of money for a few reasons. One if you want to track the car put it on the track before you spend a ton of money on expencive items that will make minor improvements. Two a stiffer car is more precise but much less forgiving, so when you are learning your mistakes are going to show. (I had a mistake that put me off track in the climbing esses at VIR at about 70+ mph I was very lucky and nothing happened but I was rattled). Three if you want to stiffen the car a Kirk or Autopower roll bar is the way to go, they bolt right in and I'm almost positive that both companies offer a harness bar for their respective product.
6. Not to get too techno geek I'll put it this way... the bigger the bar the less traction you have at that end of the car (now before anyone blows a gasket I know thats not exactly what happens but if anyone wants to know how roll bars work google is your friend). So if you add a larger bar to your front you will under steer, add it to the rear and the car rotates, use both and you most likely will have a car that understeers.
Brakes If your car is a street car dont worry about brakes they will stop you fine. I have Autox'd and done track days in our CRX and really have had minimal brake fade. Honda brakes when rebuilt are great. And to be honest you wont have the balls to drive it deep in turn one at 115-125 and in a Honda you really dont touch the brakes that much in my experiance at VIR North (yes the full course is a little different). So again just do yourself a favor and save the money and just rebuild what you have with stock stuff
Bushings You have misread about the bushings!!! The only bushings that you want to use OEM or Mugen is your trailing arm bushing, this one has to twist and turn. A soild bushing here makes the car act kinda funny. But every other bushing should be replaced. If you or anyone else is planning one spending money on an older car's suspension and do not replace the bushing you are flushing money away. Worn out bushings move so your alignment will never be right as the bushings flex and give under compression. And as these bushings move in this very inconsistant way the car will react differently, but you will not be able to use your suspension adjustments to try to correct it because the bushings will do it again and again.
To everyone who wants to get on a roadcourse, or even autocross, do what you have to do to make the car safe and reliable and go do it. If you spend $800-$900 on suspension add ons, or other so called upgrades up and above what ever it takes to make the car safe; and now your broke or worse in debt. That cash could have sent you to 2 weekends at the track learning what you yourself need to work on and maybe some small things to do to the car. The track is the place to play with your cars not the street. So just get it together and go do it.... It will change your life!!!!
Option :
1. Cool
2. I just dont think the password front bar is worth the coin I would go with the neuspeed one its a little cheaper
3. good
4&5 is still a waist of money for a few reasons. One if you want to track the car put it on the track before you spend a ton of money on expencive items that will make minor improvements. Two a stiffer car is more precise but much less forgiving, so when you are learning your mistakes are going to show. (I had a mistake that put me off track in the climbing esses at VIR at about 70+ mph I was very lucky and nothing happened but I was rattled). Three if you want to stiffen the car a Kirk or Autopower roll bar is the way to go, they bolt right in and I'm almost positive that both companies offer a harness bar for their respective product.
6. Not to get too techno geek I'll put it this way... the bigger the bar the less traction you have at that end of the car (now before anyone blows a gasket I know thats not exactly what happens but if anyone wants to know how roll bars work google is your friend). So if you add a larger bar to your front you will under steer, add it to the rear and the car rotates, use both and you most likely will have a car that understeers.
Brakes If your car is a street car dont worry about brakes they will stop you fine. I have Autox'd and done track days in our CRX and really have had minimal brake fade. Honda brakes when rebuilt are great. And to be honest you wont have the balls to drive it deep in turn one at 115-125 and in a Honda you really dont touch the brakes that much in my experiance at VIR North (yes the full course is a little different). So again just do yourself a favor and save the money and just rebuild what you have with stock stuff
Bushings You have misread about the bushings!!! The only bushings that you want to use OEM or Mugen is your trailing arm bushing, this one has to twist and turn. A soild bushing here makes the car act kinda funny. But every other bushing should be replaced. If you or anyone else is planning one spending money on an older car's suspension and do not replace the bushing you are flushing money away. Worn out bushings move so your alignment will never be right as the bushings flex and give under compression. And as these bushings move in this very inconsistant way the car will react differently, but you will not be able to use your suspension adjustments to try to correct it because the bushings will do it again and again.
To everyone who wants to get on a roadcourse, or even autocross, do what you have to do to make the car safe and reliable and go do it. If you spend $800-$900 on suspension add ons, or other so called upgrades up and above what ever it takes to make the car safe; and now your broke or worse in debt. That cash could have sent you to 2 weekends at the track learning what you yourself need to work on and maybe some small things to do to the car. The track is the place to play with your cars not the street. So just get it together and go do it.... It will change your life!!!!
Last edited by vbspec; Jun 12, 2006 at 09:32 PM.
Thread Starter
Eat me.
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From: seven eleven plus the fo' six
Re: discussing my wishlist for suspension stuff
as far as the rear swaybar goes, the rear end of my car kicked out when i still had skunk2 strut bars in the front and back. if i was to get strutbars again, and then a rear swaybar, i'm sure it would only get worse, so i think i'm gonna go with the front sway bar also.
Brakes - where can i get my brakes rebuilt and how much would that probably run me?
Bushings - is the ES hyperflex system a good purchase. i had bought it before, but never installed it, and i ended up selling it because the install was quoted to me for 1000 dollars. i have no idea how to press all of the bushings in.
also, i can't drive around really besides school/work till mid october, so i have plenty of time to add on to the car for the time being, i'm sure it'll be quite some time from now before i'm actually out at VIR and i'm confident in my vehichle being out there as far as safety and everything else goes.
oh, almost forgot, where can i order/look at the autopower rollbar?
Brakes - where can i get my brakes rebuilt and how much would that probably run me?
Bushings - is the ES hyperflex system a good purchase. i had bought it before, but never installed it, and i ended up selling it because the install was quoted to me for 1000 dollars. i have no idea how to press all of the bushings in.
also, i can't drive around really besides school/work till mid october, so i have plenty of time to add on to the car for the time being, i'm sure it'll be quite some time from now before i'm actually out at VIR and i'm confident in my vehichle being out there as far as safety and everything else goes.
oh, almost forgot, where can i order/look at the autopower rollbar?
braap braap
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 14,536
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From: Portsmouth
Re: discussing my wishlist for suspension stuff
Originally Posted by Slimsta Jimsta
Bushings - is the ES hyperflex system a good purchase. i had bought it before, but never installed it, and i ended up selling it because the install was quoted to me for 1000 dollars. i have no idea how to press all of the bushings in.
also, i can't drive around really besides school/work till mid october, so i have plenty of time to add on to the car for the time being, i'm sure it'll be quite some time from now before i'm actually out at VIR and i'm confident in my vehichle being out there as far as safety and everything else goes.
also, i can't drive around really besides school/work till mid october, so i have plenty of time to add on to the car for the time being, i'm sure it'll be quite some time from now before i'm actually out at VIR and i'm confident in my vehichle being out there as far as safety and everything else goes.
Since you can't really have any downtime. Get backups of your stock stuff and get the bushings pressed in. Then when you install them, you can sell your stockers. Thats what I am doing.
I can 100% agree with the trailing arm bushing. DO NOT put a solid one in there. We put a set on a friends car, and it felt very wierd all around.
I'd also like to know about the E.S. bushing kit.
go with koni's IMO 
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Re: discussing my wishlist for suspension stuff
I'll jump in and also say that you do not want polyurethane bushings for the rear trailing arms for the said reasons. Its either mugen or OEM (there the same).
For the rest of the bushings ill recommend ES, I had them on my hatch and they were great. All I had to do was get them pressed out then put the new ones in by hand(there two piece bushings). Just make sure to use ALL THE GREASE, I have heard of a lot people not putting enough grease and getting squeaking noises from the bushings. I went crazy with the grease and didn’t hear a squeak for the time I owned the car.
edit: I had the front and rear lower control arms and strut bushings from ES the rest I didnt need.
For the rest of the bushings ill recommend ES, I had them on my hatch and they were great. All I had to do was get them pressed out then put the new ones in by hand(there two piece bushings). Just make sure to use ALL THE GREASE, I have heard of a lot people not putting enough grease and getting squeaking noises from the bushings. I went crazy with the grease and didn’t hear a squeak for the time I owned the car.
edit: I had the front and rear lower control arms and strut bushings from ES the rest I didnt need.
Last edited by MaxPower; Jun 13, 2006 at 03:40 PM.
Needs more poke.
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Posts: 6,413
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From: Brunswick, ME
Re: discussing my wishlist for suspension stuff
Originally Posted by Slimsta Jimsta
oh, almost forgot, where can i order/look at the autopower rollbar?
http://www.ioportracing.com/Merchant...ory_Code=AP581
Originally Posted by vbspec
So just get it together and go do it.... It will change your life!!!!
I think iv herd this before....
Thread Starter
Eat me.
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From: seven eleven plus the fo' six
Re: discussing my wishlist for suspension stuff
Just saw another thing that i think i'd like to get. Just want to hear opinions first:
Quaife Quick Ratio Steering Rack and Pinion
http://kingmotorsports.com/product.a...&vehicle=Civic
I've heard bits and peices of things about that before, and i think i'd actually like to have it in my car, having a manual steering car can be a bitch sometimes, and i do remember when i went autocrossing, turning my wheel all the way around back and forth was a pain in the ass and it slipped out of my hand once or twice. Have yall heard of anyone using this?
Quaife Quick Ratio Steering Rack and Pinion
http://kingmotorsports.com/product.a...&vehicle=Civic
I've heard bits and peices of things about that before, and i think i'd actually like to have it in my car, having a manual steering car can be a bitch sometimes, and i do remember when i went autocrossing, turning my wheel all the way around back and forth was a pain in the ass and it slipped out of my hand once or twice. Have yall heard of anyone using this?
braap braap
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 14,536
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From: Portsmouth
Re: discussing my wishlist for suspension stuff
I'm actually doing something similar to this. BUT, I'm not doing that. The cost and downtime isn't worth it. IMO
I'm using a powersteering rack, and doing the breather mod to it.
The integra type r rack is "the best", and you can do the breather mod to that. But take my input lightly, you should listen to the other guy. He knows best.
I'm using a powersteering rack, and doing the breather mod to it.
The integra type r rack is "the best", and you can do the breather mod to that. But take my input lightly, you should listen to the other guy. He knows best.
Last edited by Jarrod; Jun 14, 2006 at 09:46 AM.
