Jim if your FWD car got loose during street driving, you were either driving too fast for the conditions, or you touched the brakes in a turn.... in which you were probably going to fast for the conditions.

Brakes should cost no more than $200-$300 and that is including SS brake lines. Autozone rotors (do not waist money on vented or cross drilled rotors, 90%of the ECHC drivers are running these $14 rotors), rebuilt calipers up front, get a rebuilt kit for your rears, and either a new or rebuilt master cylinder.

I did my bushings myself and there are a ton of ways to do it again searh the web and you should be able to find a way that you are comfortable doing. BUt yea they are worth the time a little bit of money.

It seems that people take going to the track the wrong way. You dont need a fully prepped car! As long as its mechanicaly strong, meaning you have done the needed maintanance and the car is not falling apart go do it. I built my dads CRX to run Autocross and we built it to the letter of the rules; this really was not the best way to then jump out on the track. I did have experiance in the car but not at track speeds. It would have been better for me to run a car closer to stock so I could learn to drive the track and then built the car up and learned the car. I learned this the hard way.... I have almost wadded the car twice trying to push the car faster than I was skilled to drive it. Even a stock car can be driven safely way faster than you give it credit for.


Derek I think I'm going to be coming by to pick up the SER for the weekend tonight, I'll call Brett when I get off work.

 

sounds good, i just have to put the underbody plastic shit back on(plan on doing this in 10 mins) and then it should be ready to go! Ill leave a key at the house for ya. Good luck!

 

i'm running baer / rotora rotors and hawks all the way around w/ earl's SS lines and synpower fluid. very good upgrade for alot less than $500.

as far as your other choices bars look to be top notch. jimmy is running the ASR / PAssword setup and loves it. he's also running tein basics and ST front and CTR rear sways. very stable.

i'm not sure about coilovers for your chassis. i've heard good things about H&R's cup kits, Tanabe's and tein's. but i hear k&W's and D2's are also top notch pieces. just look into the rates for the eg chassis.

sounds like a very good start. i just ordered a full ES bushing kit, and am getting H&R sports in the mail next week. throw in my ingalls poly front and rear camber kits, a progress rear bar and some AGX's and i'll be set. this will be my final setup (untill i decide to go to full adjustable coilovers)

Springs - H&R Sports
Struts - KYB AGX's
Sway bar Fr - Stock (ES bushings & Endlinks)
Sway bar Rr - Progress (Progress Bushings and endlinks)
LCA Fr - Stock (ES bushings)
LCA Rr - Stock (Poly Bushings)
UCA Fr - Stock (ingalls poly adj. mounts)
UCA Rr - Ingalls Smart Arm
FUSTB - Tanabe Sustec
FLSTB - Tanabe Sustec
RUSTB - DC Sport
RLSTB - DC Sport

not as much aftermarket for these damn accords.

 

Well, just started things off by ordering the EM Racing C-pillar bar.

Yes, i realize it's probably the least effective of the things i plan on buying, but oh well, it felt nice to order something haha