Wont Rev past 3000 HELP!!!
This happens 9 times out of 10 because the wiring is incorrect, there are a few tricky things with the dpfi-mpfi wiring. Check that shit...LS in the crx is nice, don't miss out on the rest of the revs 
Pins B10 and B12 at the ECU should already be empty.
Move C1 (orange) -> B10
Move C2 (white) -> B12
Now C1 and C2 should be empty at the ECU.
Run wires from C1 and C2 into the engine bay. These two wires are the ones that carry the signal from the Crank Angle Sensor.
The new wire connecting to C1 at the ECU should go directly to the Blue/Green wire on the distributor.
The new wire connecting to C2 at the ECU should go directly to the Blue/Yellow wire on the distributor.
SUMMARY:
C1 and C2 at the ECU should go to the Blu/Grn and Blu/Yel wires on the distributor.
B10 and B12 should be ORN and WHT wires that were originally at C1 and C2.
Check for continuity in each of the above 4 wires from their respective pins at the ECU to their respective pins on the distributor plug. (Note: C1/C2 also go to the distributor - Cylinder Position Sensor to be exact. The orange and white colors carry all the way.)
If you do all this, and you get the same results (before you go spend the money on a new dizzy), check the resistance of each of the above sensors. Unplug the dizzy from the harness and set a multimeter to read ohms. Connect your probes to each of the above sets of wires on the dizzy side and check the reading. If it reads 350-700 ohms, then the sensor itself is GOOD, and you need to recheck your wiring. If this is the case, reconnect the harness and check for the same readings on the ECU connector. If it's the same, then all should be good. If not, then it's obviously a wire issue.
Damn, I'm very bored. Good luck.

Pins B10 and B12 at the ECU should already be empty.
Move C1 (orange) -> B10
Move C2 (white) -> B12
Now C1 and C2 should be empty at the ECU.
Run wires from C1 and C2 into the engine bay. These two wires are the ones that carry the signal from the Crank Angle Sensor.
The new wire connecting to C1 at the ECU should go directly to the Blue/Green wire on the distributor.
The new wire connecting to C2 at the ECU should go directly to the Blue/Yellow wire on the distributor.
SUMMARY:
C1 and C2 at the ECU should go to the Blu/Grn and Blu/Yel wires on the distributor.
B10 and B12 should be ORN and WHT wires that were originally at C1 and C2.
Check for continuity in each of the above 4 wires from their respective pins at the ECU to their respective pins on the distributor plug. (Note: C1/C2 also go to the distributor - Cylinder Position Sensor to be exact. The orange and white colors carry all the way.)
If you do all this, and you get the same results (before you go spend the money on a new dizzy), check the resistance of each of the above sensors. Unplug the dizzy from the harness and set a multimeter to read ohms. Connect your probes to each of the above sets of wires on the dizzy side and check the reading. If it reads 350-700 ohms, then the sensor itself is GOOD, and you need to recheck your wiring. If this is the case, reconnect the harness and check for the same readings on the ECU connector. If it's the same, then all should be good. If not, then it's obviously a wire issue.
Damn, I'm very bored. Good luck.
man thanks for all the info i wish i was good at wiring the guy that did my wiring kind of left it like that and wont get back with me so im in need of some help still
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