Im going to be going with the Tokico Illumina set up. What is a good setting (front and rear) for the street and good setting for the strip?

 

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uh, you got it backwards. bleed from master towards wheel.

 

RandomTask had it right....

When you are bleeding the system, start with the wheel that is farthest away from the master cylinder, and then work your way back towards the front left wheel. In other words bleed the system in this order: right-rear, left-rear, right-front, left-front. Bleeding in this order will minimize the amount of air that gets into the system.

 

that is if you don't have air in the lines. if the lines are replaced you have to bleed each line and then the wheel itself. You are right in that part.

 

RandomTask is right but he isn't taking the calipers off, he's just replacing the rotors. These rotors need at least ebc green stuff pads to reduce noises. I would go with a blank rotor. There are no advantages to a drilled or slotted rotor unless we go back to the 60's when they had asbestos pads and large amounts of gas that needed to be expelled. Blank rotors and good pads would be a better choice. More stopping power will come from a big brake kit (from bremo) not drilled rotors. Heres a link about drilled vs blank rotors. I'm just tryin to save you some money and anger when you dont notice a difference and you're stuck with unwanted noises.

 

use air tools. save your self a few years.

the lower ball joint is removed easiest with a pitman arm puller from advance auto. it fits the arms perfectly over the top of the lower control arm and the bolt center in the stud of the ball joint, be sure to give the side of the control arm a few extremely hard hits with a 10lb hammer before hand to loosen things up a bit. here is the link to the one i use every time.
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...tnumber=T72069

the notch on the axle and the nut is refered to as a "stake", saying that you stake the nut once its properly tightened on the axle to keep if from backing off.

 

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