i just rebuil my lsvtec motor with a b18a1 block and b16a head and put it in my 92 gsr. new valve seals, new type r pistons, new rings, valves do need adjusted. the motor now has 300 miles on it and its still smoking pretty good, especially after it warms up. and advice?? also my ring gap was within standards and block was checked and honed

 

what kind of smoke?

blue? black? white?

stock ECU?

 

Mine smokes it ass off too. On cold start it smokes.. stops when its warm, then smokes again when i"m under boost. She likes to eat oil too. Just one of those things....

 

blue smoke, oil. not sure i think it is the stock ecu and i was told its got a cromdata tune. checklite comes on at 8 grand for shift lite

 

perhaps too much fuel?

check your headgasket? check your oil to see if its milky. Check your radiator to see if you've lost coolant.

 

dude i think your pistons are melted... that shyt happens with tunning or ecu

 

You're probably right. That happens all the time with chocolate pistons. Not sure where your facts are at with this one bro.

It's probably not the best tune on that ecu. Swap in a stock unit and run around for a day and see if that solves the problem. Also, get them stinkin valves adjusted. If the're too tight they may not close all the way letting unburnt fuel exit the cylinders.

 

Blue smoke is oil. You probably were running too rich after the rebuild, causing ring wash, guess what.. now you have to overbore and hone again, get oversized pistons to match the new bore.

You dont -ever- break in a rebuilt motor unless it is ON the dyno or have a wideband attached for a proper street tuning. From idle to partial throttle you tune it so that your A/F ratio is right where it should be. From there, drive keeping within the "low" maps to a dyno for WOT tuning.

You don't just slap on an unknown ECU/tune with a rebuilt, it's posted all over the place. I may sound like I take it personal, but damn, it's all over the place from those that ARE knowledgeable. So, I just don't understand why some insist we haven't a clue when we give advice. Maybe I will open a shop around here despite the area being over-saturated with niche market business... looks like business would be fairly decent.

Sorry to break the news to you, but, this is very likely what happened. Do a leakdown test (and throw a compression check in there more for shits and giggles) and find out your answer for sure.

That or the rebuild was shit with improper clearances.. tough to say, I didn't build it to know for certain.

 

Might have got the wrong surface finish during the hone too, or the hone wasn't sufficient to clear out the surface irregularities. A light hone doesn't do anything but make a new surface finish, and if you have uneven bore wear it's still going to be there after the hone. You've got new valve seals so an oil burning problem can't be much else than an oil control failure because of ring seating problems, etc.

Did you ask for a certain finish, or do you know what angle, Ra, hone process, etc., was used during the hone? If it was only a hone, not a bore and hone, that can be asking for trouble both in sealing and oil control.

 

lol sounds like you need a rebuild too