madsteez

I just put on a new 62mm throttle body and since then my car will not idle.it did this awhile ago before i got it tuned and even then they had to make it run rich at idle for it to idle when warmed.Now iv noticed that if i have the tps unplugged,then it idles perfect,i just get the annoying bucking when cruising.

So now for the technical questions.

What sensor is the one that tells the ecu that the car is up to normal operating temperature and its safe to run out of loop mode.(the 2 wire plug on the cylinder head,the 1 wire plug on the cylinder head,or the 2 wire plug on the cooliant rail?)

Second,does anyone know of the voltage on a honda tps sensor,like which color wire should have which amount of voltage at normal operating temp,and when its cold.

NOTE:i have changed out tps's about 3 times and its the same with all 3.I know the quesitons are very technical and i may not get an answer but its worth a shot.

PLEASE IF YOU KNOW POST UP INFO.

Fabrik8

It's the coolant temp sensor that you're thinking of. There is also a fast idle thermo valve that stops bypassing air after the engine warms up.

Your problem isn't either of those though, it's the fact that with the larger throttle body you're getting more air into the engine than the throttle position sensor and the MAP sensor are measuring. You've not got more air with the same throttle position basically, which is making the car buck while driving.

Because the throttle plate is closed at idle, your idle problem probably lies with TPS adjustment. If you've swapped your TPS over to the other throttle body, and haven't calibrated it, it's probably off. When you unplug it, the ECU looks up a default failsafe value and uses that, which works OK until you actually drive and the TPS reading would be different than that. The TPS doesn't care if the engine is hot or cold, it just reads what the throttle position is. The IACV takes care of hot idle throttle bypass, and the IACV and FITV both take care of cold idle bypass. The idle regulation is different based on the coolant temp sensor reading though, yes.

So check the TPS adjustment, and set that if need be. Also, you should always reset the ECU when you do any type of modification like this, because the ECU will be confused if it's learned/stored values are different than the new values that are being read from the sensors.

Is the FITV on the throttle body on your car, and did it swap over to the new throttle body?

madsteez

Well i did complete throttle body swap's. As for the iacv ive changed that.Its weird,the car run and idles pefectly fine without a tps,but with it plugged up it wont idle. I was told when the car is cold it does not use the tps,map,or plugs like that,it basically runs off a map of its own.

ILLEGAL

the tps is set into the propper position by voltage. You need to know the original voltage, and then adjust it to match. I had the same problem, and fixed it on my skunk 2 70mm race tb. The throttle position sensor will also obviously have a different reading at w.o.t.

I cant remember the exact voltage, but it's late, if I remember I will let you know.

madsteez

Ya thats what i was hoping i would find out,the voltage at idle and then when its warm.It only acts funny when its warm.

Fabrik8

Usually the TPS range is 0.5 to 4.5V, or actually a slightly smaller range than that. 0.5 to 4.5 is usually the no-fault range, so the ECU gives a CEL if it's outside of that range.

madsteez

So you mean if i back out the tps repaining screws,and adjust it from left to right,the problem will be fixed?Ive never had this problem with any other car,and my boy has a d16 with a b16 throttle body and his isnt doing this.When i had the car originally tuned they were able to make it not do this,by messing with the idle.

Verbal

You would adjust it until it sits a .5 volts closed and 4.5 +/- open.

rice4life

no the red and black wire in the center should read .45 closed and it dont mater what it reads open. and im also pretty damn sure that the the other two are a ground and a constent 5.0 volts

another tip would be to spray starting fluid aroud ur mani and make sure you have no cracks or gaskets leaking.

(how did that bov work out for you?)