H22NUT

I have a 93 prelude VTEC and about 3 months ago, i blew the motor. I decided to just find a used USDM H22a1 and do a direct replacement. I eventually found a motor with 60000 miles on it and i dropped it in. When i picked it up from the speed shop, i was about 2 miles down the road and the check engine light came on. This is common with engine swaps, and i waited a few days for the ECU to possibly accept the motor. The car ran decent at first, but lacked power. After driving for a week, it started bucking and missing bigtime. so i threw a new set of wires on and set the gap on the plugs correctly, and that fixed the missing problem. But now i have a bigger problem. My car will drop close to 600 rpm when i come to a stop sign sometimes and almost shut off and other times it will idle at 1000 rpm. The check engine light will come on when i go above 4,000 rpm and a slight knocking noise occurs. i was told this is a good motor, and it seemed to run smooth. I took it to the garage and i was told it was the knock sensor which causes the check engine light to come on, which retards the timing, which causes it to drop around 600 rpms when coming to a stop. Well, he disconnected the sensor, and it still does the same thing. it has no power and makes a clicking noise above 4,000 rpm. i have taken it to many mechanics and none of them can figure out what the problem is. I was just considering if it is possilby only running on 3 cylinders, but im not sure.. Is there anyone that knows Hondas well enough to fix my prob????

Dang Yo

accuracy automotive 757-548-9227

h23havoc

my integra idles the same way it drops between 500 and like 100 rpms nearly cutting off,but it was a vacuum leak,then my vtec quit working and it was a pig,when vtec stopped working it was throwin the check engine light,only when i ran it the check light would come on so i turned the car off for 30 secs to reset the ecu then when i would get on it again it would throw the check light again,thats what happened to my car not sayin its whats wrong with urs but i had those similar probs and thats what i did so id check your vtec wires and oil cuz my car was slow as piss without vtec sorry if this doesnt help just thought id let ya know i had the same probs, hope ya figure it out.

SlowLS

What the hell is a dsm h22a1? Do you mean usdm?

H22NUT

it was a typo, im not stupid, United States domestic market. oooooo, u are so smart for picking on my mistake, thank u...

S dot Camp

Was a new timing belt installed on the used engine? You may want to see if it was installed properly. You may also want to check ignition timing. Did the garage you took the vehicle actually check the CEL to see what the problem was? If it is in fact the knock sensor, you will need to replace it not just unplug it.

H22NUT

A new timing belt was installed and it is dead on. When i did the swap, everything was replaced with new parts. I am thinking that it could be dealing with the ignition, because my last motor was the same way. The check engine light still comes on with the knock sensor detached, so i am gonna check the code and see what BS the ecu is telling me this time. Thanks for your help, anything is appreciated at this point.

sucio7

did u see it done, some shop tell u they didi it b ut they dont ask for the receipts

S dot Camp

The CEL will remain on if you don't plug in a known working knock sensor.