Originally Posted by DeFunk

Ok, as noted above. You mentioned that you had this engine overbored, but are running ITR pistons. If they are straight up ITR pistons, they already have a 81mm (stock) bore size, so overboring the cylinders would make them too big for ITR pistons.



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Who assembled your motor? You and your friend? If not, I would speak to the person who assembled it. If you and your friend assembled it, well.

Spring rate wouldn't have much bearing on an initial startup after swapping cams (camshafts), though you would want to think about upgrading the springs before using any type of aggressive cam (camshaft).

To change the cams, you need to disconnect the timing belt from the camgears (for those following). As a result, your cam timing may be off (there is cam and then there is ignition timing).

As for me not understanding, I understand the Honda inline 4 very well, it was your post and lack of punctuation that made it difficult to read. I let you know this, you bit, I bit back now let's get beyond that and try to resolve the problem.

What is wrong with using a "basemap" (I wish whoever coined the word would die) is that there is NOT a "basemap" that will work for all vehicles. All setups are different, even if they use the same parts, -something- is likely different, different tolerances, performance, etc. A "basemap" is to start a car more less.. anything beyond that it should be tuned immediately.

You've gone this far doing the build yourself, or so it sounds, now its time to learn. You dont know what a leak down test is, thats fine, google it (I say this simply because I dont want to rewrite what I am absolutely positive is already written somewhere out there if not on these forums). It doesnt require expensive equipment, in fact, if you have a compression tester, you're kinda half way there. You should be able to find instructions on how to build a leak down, assuming you have a compressor. I have a Snap On "leak down" tester that I use, but it ran me $350 if I remember right, probably far more than you want to spend.

Originally Posted by accarroll

dude your an asshole

Originally Posted by SlowLS

Are you still running stock valve springs? You also said you bored the motor, how much? And are you running an oversized ITR piston?

Originally Posted by accarroll

dude your an asshole

Originally Posted by revn211

ok?

Originally Posted by DeFunk

I think he meant me, tough to tell since he hasn't found the quote button yet.


As TurboHonda said and I said in the post before that:



Your cam timing is most likely the culprit. Your bore size is 81.5mm just so you know. Also, if you didn't, make sure you follow the install/tightdown pattern as well as the torque specifications of your cam caps, it's not an ok thing to just tighten em down. Incase you didnt use a torque wrench.

Follow the mark on the crankshaft pulley aligning it properly and use metal rod (precision screwdrivers are a -bad- idea as they are usually very brittle material) to ensure your cams are aligned properly as well. Yes, you could go by the marks on the camgears but we have the extra added bonus of alinging our cams using metal rod/dowels

Then set your belt. Ensure you torque down the tension bolt to specification as well and that it has proper play, etc. I would hope/imagine you have a Service Manual, if not get one. There are plenty available on the internet, but, buying one imo is a good idea.

Originally Posted by dallasb84

even if your 180 out or a tooth off it can still run...... i bet you got your plug wires on the distributor cap screwed up..... honestly double check it.

thats a sure fire way to get compression fuel and spark and not have it run..... imo. im only suggesting this because, if you do not know what a leak down test is, your probably still learning.

when it comes making sure the big things are right (like timing marks and setting the belt) dont get frustrated and forget about the small things.