revn211

Ok here is the deal- i recently put together a poor mans r build. i had everything completley rebuild and assembled at a local machine shop. it was bored new pistons, bearings, rings, valves, the whole nine! well i got the motor and had someone else put it in and get the car legal (to pass inspection) i was runing a chipped p28. from the very first start up it had a rough idle and kind of a lil miss. i just assumed it was something with the tune because when you steped on the gas it cleared up! after break in i upgraded cams (and this is where the problem lies). the cams were skunk2 stage 1's and im runin itr pistons- i helped a friend of mine put them in and everything was checked and double checked after the install to make sure the timing and what not was correct-and they were however the car would not start!!!! we went through everything all the way to realighning (sp lol) every timing mark there is and the bastard still wouldnt start! so i dont know if its an electrical prob (i am runing an old conversion harness) or what it could be. it had low compression but i am hoping that it was just due to all the gas that was being put in the cylinders (the fuel is set correctly and there is excellent spark!). we eventually put the stock b16 cams back it and it still wont start. i used brand new plugs and runing nology wires but im not 100% sure the dizzy is ok but either way im starting to get fed up with it and am about ready to just sell everything i have but i thought i would post this and see what ideas yall come up with so any opinions are welcome and appreciated! thanks

revn211

bump

DeFunk

I have a tendency to read posts that people make in the Tech Help forum and like to reply with possible resolutions if not definite resolutions. Though, your post just downright sucks, the total lack of punctuation is horrid.

Use spaces, indents, a frickin comma and begin the first word of a new sentence with a capital letter please.

Good luck to anyone else reading that.

revn211

yeah, ill remember that! but personally i dont give a fuck if it has proper grammer! its not like im in school and it is a graded assignment. As long as you get the point and can understand what i am asking, WHO CARES!!!

integrag

damn

integrag

sounds like one of those shit happens numbers

DeFunk

Well then, who cares about your problem. It's grammar btw, so it's a rather good thing you aren't being graded. I never noted grammar as a problem, mispelled words happens; I do it, you can do it, etc. Though your post is just a cluster fuck to read. Hence the purpose of my post because I canNOT understand what you're asking.

I'm not the stupid fuck that (if I can understand your shit of a post correctly) broke in a motor on a basemap and I'm willing to bet that is exactly what you did. You say you have low compression, with ITR pistons from what I gather (once again from that shit of a post) and yet you have low compression. Let me tell you what probably happened. You probably experienced wash down and now you have uneven and over worn rings. At this point a leak down is necessary.

You say you now have your fuel set correctly, but, how the fuck do you know this if it's not running?

So you want more experienced help/assistance for free and want the perspective helper read a post that clearly demonstrates you have no respect for its readers. Right.

revn211

I see what you are saying about not being able to understand what i am asking! That might be because i really didnt ask one, so here is the question, Based on the above information what could be the problem? Now i will admit that i do not have a clue what type of tune is on that ecu (yes it could be a basemap) however i do know that it came out of a very strong runing car when i bought it. If it is a basemap whats wrong with using that to break the motor in anyway? I am going to be honest, i do not know what a leak down is nor am i familar with the process so i am going to ask if that is something i need to take the engine back to the shop for? As far as the fuel goes, i said it is set correctly- not it is now set correctly. and i know because it was set before the cams were swaped and hasent been touched so im pretty sure it has not changed but hey what do i know im just a stupid fuck, rite!

I have no idea why you would think i do not respect the people on this forum! If i did not respect them then i wouldnt post anything asking for advice. now i know everyone has the rite to their own opinion but if you dont mind next time you do not understand something just simply state that you do not understand and ask if i, or whom ever, could be more specific instead of telling everyone that you think it was horribly put together and that im a stupid fuck.

SlowLS

Are you still running stock valve springs? You also said you bored the motor, how much? And are you running an oversized ITR piston?

DeFunk

Ok, as noted above. You mentioned that you had this engine overbored, but are running ITR pistons. If they are straight up ITR pistons, they already have a 81mm (stock) bore size, so overboring the cylinders would make them too big for ITR pistons.

...

Who assembled your motor? You and your friend? If not, I would speak to the person who assembled it. If you and your friend assembled it, well.

Spring rate wouldn't have much bearing on an initial startup after swapping cams (camshafts), though you would want to think about upgrading the springs before using any type of aggressive cam (camshaft).

To change the cams, you need to disconnect the timing belt from the camgears (for those following). As a result, your cam timing may be off (there is cam and then there is ignition timing).

As for me not understanding, I understand the Honda inline 4 very well, it was your post and lack of punctuation that made it difficult to read. I let you know this, you bit, I bit back now let's get beyond that and try to resolve the problem.

What is wrong with using a "basemap" (I wish whoever coined the word would die) is that there is NOT a "basemap" that will work for all vehicles. All setups are different, even if they use the same parts, -something- is likely different, different tolerances, performance, etc. A "basemap" is to start a car more less.. anything beyond that it should be tuned immediately.

You've gone this far doing the build yourself, or so it sounds, now its time to learn. You dont know what a leak down test is, thats fine, google it (I say this simply because I dont want to rewrite what I am absolutely positive is already written somewhere out there if not on these forums). It doesnt require expensive equipment, in fact, if you have a compression tester, you're kinda half way there. You should be able to find instructions on how to build a leak down, assuming you have a compressor. I have a Snap On "leak down" tester that I use, but it ran me $350 if I remember right, probably far more than you want to spend.