sive ick

be advised this is long



well now im going to let my sister drive my lil brown mazda and i want to know she will be safe untill i have a buyer for the car

i have invested shit loads of money into these brakes and they still arent turning out correctly

new calipers
rotors
pads
rebuilt master cylinder

and the rear was completely done 2 months ago


so heres the deal,the brakes work but there is a good 2-4 inches before you get the brakeing effect

i have pretty much narrowed it down to the rear,due to when i have the e brake up as high as possible it hold hold the car at a stop but if i give it the slightest gas(1500 rpm)the car instantly jerks and moves

i have taken the car to mizer over and over again and just payed 62.00 for a full brake system flush and inspection and said that the rear shoes have been exposed to brake fluid and have swollen


any ideas and suggestion to my problem are greatly appreciated and if someone who knows a good amount of brakes who is willing to glance over the car pm me,my sister has a baby and i do not want to have to worry about her

gear

well it sounds like you have multiple problems. If mizer said your shoes have been exposed to brake fluid, then they are essentially next to worthless. The fluid makes the shoes swell and get soft. You probably had a wheel cylinder blow out. Also if theyre barely holding, then theyre out of adjustment (not tight enough). If they are adjusted properly, then the wheel should not spin more than 1-2 times when off the ground. If they spin more, than they are too loose, & must be adjusted outwards.

Im not sure whether you did the shoes yourself but here's how it should work.

1. Jack up the car, and open master cylinder top.
2. Block off rear lines... usually a pair of vice grips gently pinching a softline will do the trick.
3. Check the wheel cylinders for any sign of leakage. Use a small pick or flathead screwdriver to lift back the boot on the wheel cylinder. If there is any brake fluid, then they need to be replaced.
4. If they need to be changed, remove the shoes and remove the cylinder, making careful not to bend the steel lines. Put the new one on, then put the shoes back on (new ones recommended if theyre old/soiled/saturated).
5. Put the drum back on to see how freely it spins. Once that has been determined, you may need to take the drum back off to spin the adjuster gear/cog to get the right tightness when the drum is put on.
6. Once the correct tightness is obtained, then open the bleeders and take the line locks off. after a minute or two, fluid will drip from the bleeders...its okay to shut them now. This is called gravity bleeding and essentially primes the wheel cylinders with brake fluid, plus it makes bleeding them much faster.
7. Top the master cylinder off with brake fluid, then put the cap back on. Have somebody get in the drivers seat and pump the pedal a few times and then hold. Start at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder (back right on 99% of cars). and crack the bleeder... you will see fluid and bubbles come out. Once the pedal has reached the floor close the bleeder and make the helper lift off the pedal. Have the helper step and hold down again as you crack the bleeder open. Repeat until there are no bubbles coming out of the bleeder. Then repeat for the other wheels... (the only wheels that have to be bled usually are the ones that have had the line open, for instance to change a caliper or a wheel cylinder.)


hope this helps.

sive ick

ya man thanks,im going to replace the rear shoes and wheel cylinders

like i had the rear adjusted and the e brake is tight as hell,im just guessing the shoes are soft