LSlowteg

before you tell me to put in a b series understand its not my car. but what i got to deal with is a d15b2 block and a head from running th numbers pm3-7 is a d16a6 head. it was running ok but had a dead spot in power in low rpm and some chattering from the valves so i figured it wouldnt hurt to adjust the valves to get them a little quiter. while i was doing the valve adj i realized that TDC and the cam gear marks were just a little off, so i thought that could be the source of the low rpm dead spot so i re timed the cam but in doing so realized that every time i set the belt tension then get all the way back to the TDC mark on the cam (the line that points to the mark on the cam cover when "up" is up) its about a half tooth off which i did some more reading and found that i most likely have to use the y7 or y8 cam gear, so i need to know if im right in thinking that and how bad off would the valves be if i gauged them with the cam off that half a tooth. its really kinda bothering me cuz the car would run decent and now all it wants to do is backfire through the intake so please help me out and thak you in advance.

SortaFlush

It's backfiring through the intake?

Sounds like a bent valve bud and not an adjustment. Especially if the timing was off, driving it like that with the rotating assembly out of time could have caused valve damage. If you need a y7-y8 cam gear and your near va beach I'm pretty sure I have one for you. God, I haven't messed with a single cam in a while. But, my best guess is that you do have a bent intake valve or atleast one that isn't sealing/chipped. Honestly, I'd gather up some loot, troll the FS forums for a complete D16z6. You can find them for 200-300 easily all day long. I used to be into the whole mis-matching single cam setups, but it really is more trouble than it is worth.

One place you may want to study up on, is D-series.org. Goodluck.

LSlowteg

it ran decent before and only backifires when its warm its the shop spl car and im in south carolina. timing wasnt off no more than a tooth not sure how tight those motors are on inference but i read that the cam key way is off by a half a tooth in the 1.6 but im trying to make sure that could be the problem before the boss goes a hunts down a cam gear. and the motor was put in about a year ago and it ranlike shit doing the same thing he had a guy come through and tinker with it and got it decent but it always had problems it was a 8valve hf set up in a 90 crx

SortaFlush

D15b2. Wait, that's a HF motor?

If so, i'm very sure it has bent valves. IF I remember correctly, the Hf motor doesn't really have much of a valve release on the pistons them self. The valves on the A6 head are going to open further than the HF head would. So that is more than likely your problem.

LSlowteg

great not my car and im sure to be blamed for the issue anybody know what d series heads go for these days?

SortaFlush

Hold on, I just did a little refresher. The b2 isn't a HF motor. So forget what I said. If your using the D16a6 camshaft, you need the y7-y8 cam gear. If you are using the B2 cam in the A6 head you use the b2 cam gear. So before you replace the head or anything, try out that cam gear bud. The cam gear corrects the deck height problem with both of the heads. Continue using the B2 belt

1rude2l

Do a compression check that will tell you if it has any bent valves.

LSlowteg

ok i got the y8 cam gear on and after setting the timing belt about 5 times i seem to have it dead on. car cranks and revs fine but when you put a load on it in low rpm it hesatates kinda bad, no backfire or anything just has no power but once it get past abou 3000-3500 rpm in smooths out and seems to be fine once warm i cant get idle above 400-500 rpm ANY IDEAS WELCOME. i wish he would take my advice and just drop in a LS but oh well