Veritas

here is the link to the thread on honda-tech..

http://honda-tech.com/zeropost?cmd=tshow&id=2317366

here is the issue....

the car is a 1992 honda prelude, h23 engine....

for the past few days, my car has been acting up. when i come to a stop, the rpms drop real low, and then the car just cuts off. so far, its had no problem starting back up.

also, in the past few days, its had an issue where i would go from a stop and hit the gas, and then it kind of wouldnt do anything, and then all of a sudden, it would just jump and go. its like the acceleration was delayed. this has only happened 2 or 3 times.

now the car wont run/start at all.....

soooo nnnnooooowwwww.....

okay, tonight we replaced the fuel pump with a known good one. and nothing. the pump doesnt turn on and also no pressure on the gauge at the filter. we checked the main relay and we can hear it click on. it clicks twice but no pump/pressure. i do beleive we are going to try a main relay just to knock that off the list.

there is no spark at the plugs. there is spark at the distributor, but nothing at the plugs. the car has crane cams ignition and a crane cams coil and ngk wires. there is nothing at the coil either.

thanks in advance for any help/info

reborncx

ECU may have taken a crap. check all the realys and fuses for anything that is part of the running system... ie. ecu, fuel pump... check for good gounds EYERY WHERE. run a code check by jumping the two pin connector found behind the dash under the glove box and watch the check engine light long blinks count as 10's and fast blinks count as 1's (2 long blinks and 3 short = 23 as the code number or CEL)

Veritas

there is no CELs.

ODU_Lude

TPS plugged in? mine did exactly as you described cause it wasnt plugged in..


EDIT: nvm, no CEL. couldn't tell ya.

DeFunk

Interesting situation. Would sound like an ECU issue, though then you said there was spark present though not making its way through the wires. Take a DMM at your battery, record the voltage. Throw battery on charger (preferably a slow/trickle charge) then load test it (pep boys, advance auto, etc. will do this for free of course). Check all ground connections for continuity as well.

DeFunk

I just read that you replaced the alternator in that thread you linked. If you didn't replace the battery at that time, it was very likely you had some bad cells or cells going bad. The Preludes are notorious for going through alternators due to the internal regulator design (which typically isn't a huge issue) -and- that they're placed over the header. This sporadic charging will kill a battery's cells as well as the constant charge/discharge, the battery light does not always go on (this usually happens when the problem is obvious).

If you'd rather not perform the charge and load test on the battery, then use a known good one, then see what happens. In any Prelude I've ever owned, I make an aluminum heat shield that goes between the header and alternator (attached to the alternator). I'd suggest to any Prelude owner to make one, it doesn't have to be fancy (unless you're anal like me).

Veritas

its a brand new battery. its just so weird that there is no spark at the plugs.

ODU_Lude

i thought there is a factory heat shield between the header and alternator.... and a heat shield around the header. *shruG*

DeFunk

There is the heat shield on the header (steel) and on the outside of the alternator where the voltage regulator can be found (also steel). Placing an aluminum one in between helps divert and absorb the heat. I'm assuming you own a Prelude, have you not had to change out the alternator by now?