10till4Z

well the zc isnt cutting it anymore...

so im looking for more power without boost. so im think b20b block with b18c1 head (crvtec) just wondering if anyone has had any problems with theres that i should know about before i start?....second. i know i need a new tranny ( b series) but what one would work the best.....?
thanks


by the way this is going in to a 89 crx si .

gear

there was somebody on here who had a 12 sec b20 all motor crx. I cant remember his name, but he would be the perfect person to ask.

Dang Yo

fastcrxva or something like that on here..

1nasty_eg

my boy has a b20 vtec setup just like that with some bolt on's....thing is quick

b16a2

The B20vtec is an excellent choice for an NA setup. It makes a decent amount of torque hence the bigger displacement but doesn't sacrifice top end power. There are alot of rumors going around saying they are unreliable but its all in the build quality..make sure you do it right the first time. B20 sleeves are thinner than other b series blocks because it is essentially just bored over. Sleeving the block from the start is a good idea but not needed, its just an added security precaution so you wont have to worry about cracking a sleeve one day. Yes you can still run high comp. pistons with an unsleeved block BUT I wouldn’t go around rev happy. Even a bone stock block will hold up as long as you’re not being an idiot. I myself ran 11.1 pistons in my unsleeved block for a year with no problems whatsoever. I also had a ported head with cams, springs, retainers. I was making 217whp/ 158 tq on hondata running 12's all day in a full body integra. I could go on for days but I had a long night..Let me know if you have any further questions, I’ll be more then happy to assist you

10till4Z

should i use a gsr or itr tranny..?

SlowLS

B20 sleeves are not thinner. I believe they are actually thicker, but they have a different design than other b-series motors, which is why they are rumored to be weaker. And he is going all motor, not boosting. I'm building the same setup. Main thing is to use a b-series vtec oil pump and water pump. You can use the stock, but the motor will not handle the high revs and you will oil starve your motor. I would also suggest using a b16 head over the gs-r head. It's just a better flowing head. And as far as tranny goes. Use a JDM YS-1 tranny w/ LSD. Or if it just going to be a track car, the J1 has super closse gear ratios, but no LSD, and gas milage will really suck if daily driven.

10till4Z

yea i keep hearing about theses weak sleeves on b20's, for all this work im doing this motor better put down some good whp.

Yell88CRXsi

B20 stock sleeves are not weaker or thinner overall. All this talk about thinner comes from the fact that the area where the cylinder sleeve come in contact with the next cylinder sleeve is thinner than that of the rest of the B series. So of course, most of the so called cracked B20 sleeves you hear about happen here.

Very well said. Almost any motor can be made to last, it's just about the quality of the build...that and maybe a little love and care instead of this friday night "drive it like you stole it"

I prefer the Vtec block approach, but that's me. There are some other little things I would do to a non vtec block...but in this game of engine building...everyone has an opinion.

S dot Camp

As John said, I prefer the Vtec block as well. Specially if it's going to be a daily driven car. Most of the problems you hear about the sleeves cracking are in high cylinder pressure engines. 255 psi+ per cylinder will make for a shorter lived engine when considering that it was built to operate in the 200 psi range. I would at the minimum have the sleeves supported by pins if you plan to raise compression. Just a precaution that should be taken in my opinion.