B16 CEL Problem
12-26-2004, 09:50 AM
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B16 CEL Problem
Car is a B16A CRX HF with a PR3 ECU. I wnet to start it up today, and it barely ran. It has a limit of 1500RPM and full throttle is absolutely nothing. the light it is throwing is where I ahve the problem. Its solid. No blinking or anything, please help me.
12-26-2004, 07:32 PM
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Re: B16 CEL Problem
You have either a bad ECU, or a bad chip (if the ECU is chipped). Try unplugging the ECU and letting it sit for a while. Also make sure there is no water, snow, whatever under or in the ECU.. I'm assuming it worked fine before you had this problem, and you didn't just complete the swap today?
12-27-2004, 05:22 AM
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Re: B16 CEL Problem
Its ran fine for a year or so. It is chipped, so....... Anyways I can reset it and it will work for a while, but it will come back on. And there is no wet shit on the ECU
12-27-2004, 07:30 AM
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Re: B16 CEL Problem
OK, next question. When you turn it on (you don't need to start the engine, just turn the key to on) does the CEL light solid immediatly or does it take 5 or 10 seconds to come on? If the ECU works after it gets reset(and it's chipped), there are three things that may be wrong.
1) The 74HC373 chip next to the EPROM is bad, or slightly damaged.
2) The chip itself it bad, or slightly damaged.
3) The chip is too slow, it will say the speed right on top of it (under the label) Anything 120 or faster is fine (-12 on the end of the part number, for example AT27C256-12) but I have heard of funny problems with the OBD0 PR3 and PW0 not liking certain parts.
It could be something else also, but those are the usual suspects when an ECU is chipped sloppily. Static damage and bad solder joints are the biggest problem. That's why you should really know the quality of work you're getting.
It sucks when a problem is intermittant, because it's that much harder to diagnose and solve..
Oh yeah, is this only happening when the weather is really cold? If the chip or the HC373 is a cheap temperature range, or on the edge of slowness to begin with, cold weather can make it run too slow to work properly. I can check this for you if you give me the part numbers.
Sorry this is long and confusing, but it's a complex problem to figure out usually.
1) The 74HC373 chip next to the EPROM is bad, or slightly damaged.
2) The chip itself it bad, or slightly damaged.
3) The chip is too slow, it will say the speed right on top of it (under the label) Anything 120 or faster is fine (-12 on the end of the part number, for example AT27C256-12) but I have heard of funny problems with the OBD0 PR3 and PW0 not liking certain parts.
It could be something else also, but those are the usual suspects when an ECU is chipped sloppily. Static damage and bad solder joints are the biggest problem. That's why you should really know the quality of work you're getting.
It sucks when a problem is intermittant, because it's that much harder to diagnose and solve..
Oh yeah, is this only happening when the weather is really cold? If the chip or the HC373 is a cheap temperature range, or on the edge of slowness to begin with, cold weather can make it run too slow to work properly. I can check this for you if you give me the part numbers.
Sorry this is long and confusing, but it's a complex problem to figure out usually.
Last edited by Fabrik8; 12-27-2004 at 07:36 AM.
12-27-2004, 09:36 AM
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Re: B16 CEL Problem
holy shit
. It is chipped, one of those 'mugen' chips, it sucks anyways, so.... But yeah, its so far only happened in the cold. Thanks for the help, you are too smart for me to comprehend. Should i just pull the cover off the ECU to find these numbers, or is it on the side or something.
. It is chipped, one of those 'mugen' chips, it sucks anyways, so.... But yeah, its so far only happened in the cold. Thanks for the help, you are too smart for me to comprehend. Should i just pull the cover off the ECU to find these numbers, or is it on the side or something.
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