buugiewuugie

Im finally back in business with an AWD again.. well, kinda.

I bought a 90 talon tsi awd yesterday for $600. It had a broken timing belt. So, as soon as I get it home me and a buddy started taking the head off. Couple hours later, the head comes up.. Bad news. 2 valves are melted to the top of the pistons and there are gashes all over the top of the pistons. (I got pictures if anyone is interested.) Rebuild time. Which I probably should have just pulled the motor to begin with considering the 222K on the clock.


So anyway, we are going to pull the motor saturday. And since this is my first rebuild, can anyone give me some heads up and pointers?

My guess is all the valves have to be replaced, but im not sure. How do I know, and do you think it would be cheaper/easier to buy a reman.

Should I bore it out? everyone has told me to bore it out. Is it worth it? and if I do that, would I have to tune it or can it run fine with the stock tune? Obviously a tune will come a little later down the road. Im just wondering does boring out the motor change anything drastically? And is there any real improvements in boring out, say .40 over?

I am building a list right now of all the parts I need. But anything you guys can help me with would be great. The car will not be stock but im not really looking for anything over like 350hp.

So far this is the list or parts I have please let me know of any changes I should make. or additions i should consider.

Engine Rebuild - (should i bore?)

Timing Belt kit

Oil Pump

Water Pump

Evo III Manifold

2g O2 housing

2g Intake

2g MAS

Cams - (not sure what cams to get?)

Clutch & Lightened Flywheel

SAFC - (will probably come a couple of months down the road)

Boost Gauge

Balance Shaft Removal Kit

Shifter Bushings

FPR

190lph Walbro Fuel Pump

obviously some of this stuff is not manditory for the rebuild but its stuff I would prefer to have on when the motor goes in. other upgrades will come later.

P.S. Anyone know of a good machine shop that will work on the block and the head for a decent price? Like I said I have never done this before so I have no idea how much it costs to have the head rebuilt and the block honed and hot tanked ect.


Thanks guys

buugiewuugie

help?

ThsPoq

ls1

Enigma

Replace everything that would be typical maintainence.

Sleeve it and bore it out as far as it will go.

More fuel, alcohol/water injection.

TUNE.

Strengthen the drive-train.

Hybrid AWD

i have a long block for sale. I'll cut you a deal if you wanna just give me the messed up block and head. Im trying to build an aluminum rod motor.

As for the rest of the stuff:

Engine Rebuild - (should i bore?) ----- Not a bad idea, fairly cheap. Might as well get the whole works done to the block.

Timing Belt kit ---- I might have a spare belt (new of course) at home.

Oil Pump --- go OEM, don't buy ebay pumps

Water Pump --- same for this, buy OEM, not ebay

Evo III Manifold --- why not buy a ported 2g for $100? It's capable of good power.

2g O2 housing --- just find a ported housing and youll be good to go

2g Intake --- why 2g intake? just get a Dejontool.com 1g pipe for a 2g MAS.

2g MAS ---- RRE sells the harness now for $75, there are a few guys around here who have gone with MAFT setups, so im sure you could find a MAS.

Cams - (not sure what cams to get?) --- stock cams are fine, 264/264 is a nice setup to keep the stockish idle... cams are gonna run you $400+

Clutch & Lightened Flywheel ---- ACT seems to have a good clutch and flywheel out finally. Id recommend ACT 2600 but some people prefer the 2100

SAFC - (will probably come a couple of months down the road) ---- Honestly, dont waste your money on this, save for DSMLink ($565) Well worth the extra $200 or so dollars. To get your ECU socketed (if EPROM) will cost $20-25 from ENG <--- Moderator

Boost Gauge --- follow this gauge up with at least an egt as well. Wideband would be the ideal thing, but then money is always a factor.

Balance Shaft Removal Kit -- you can buy all the pieces needed from a dealership, cost like $25 for everything. VFAQ.com to find out the parts numbers.

Shifter Bushings -- great upgrade, get the base bushings and tranny bushings together

FPR -- Aeromotive is what I stand by, don't bolt it too the fuel rail, I have never felt comfortable about that. B&M is what is on my white car, but only because it came on it, it will be replaced with my spare aeromotive.

190lph Walbro Fuel Pump --- Might as well just go with a 255lph since you are upgraded the FPR. It's never a bad idea to have too much fuel available.

buugiewuugie

How many miles are on the long block?

Is the timing belt the super strength one? How much do you want for it?

Oem? that stuff is expensive. but then again I dont want to be replacing this stuff later either.

I decided on a Evo III manifold because I can get it for $130 and it outflows a 2g

When I said 2g intake I meant an aftermarket intake that fits 2g MAS lol. Im not about to put a stock 2g intake on it.

As far as cams. I researched and I am definately going with the 264/264. Everyone was saying the 264/272 combo, but on a mild build that is not looking for 10's it adds minimal horsepower and actually slows down spool time.

Clutch - I was thinking XTD because I had one in my old AWD and it held up really nice. Launched good too. But as far as flywheel I will just have mine resurfaced I am not all about an exploding flywheel because im not spending $300 on a fidanza or other "name brand" lightweight flywheel.

I will def. go with a 255 fuel pump. Thanks for the heads up.


Also could you pm me on how the DSMlink works? Im not very inclined on tuning and I would hate to complete this build just to blow up my car.

Lastly, I was thinking of getting a 16G turbo.I know the 14b is pretty stout, but I want to know if I can get more efficiency and faster spool with a 16G. Is that worth the money?

Hybrid AWD

The long block was actually rebuilt by someone (not me) not too long ago. I took the head off to verify what the inside looked like before bringing it home. The reason I am selling it is because the car it was going to go in (my 90 gsx) is being sold to a guy in NOVA. So I don't need a spare motor hanging around. I wish I could give you a mileage on the motor, but there is no way I could. you can come take a look at it whenever you'd like.

The timing belt I have are OEM, not the Kevlar. I assume that is the one you are referring to by saying ultra strength.

I didn't know the EVO III manifold outflowed a ported 2g, but for $130, that's not bad.

For the cams, check out the FP series cams along with the Brian Crower cams. I dont recall if he offers a 264 setup or not. Don't get BC's mixed up with Crower either, they are different.

Ive never used XTD so I can't comment on it.

DSMlink is a piggyback setup for Eprom cars only. It allows you to adjust very many different fields to properly tune your car. Even if you don't plan on running big injectors, that isn't what DSMlink is all about. It provides a whole world of things that the SAFC can't provide. Http://www.dsmlink.com check it out, it's worth it.

16g is a good turbo to go with, it's used a lot with people who want to upgrade from the 14b to something that will allow for more power. There is a lot of different options available for the 16g so finding the right one for what your goals are shouldn't be too hard.

buugiewuugie

Check this link out for my reasoning for buying the 264 setup.

Cam Test

From what I have read the Evo III does flow more then the 2g. But I will do some more researching to make sure.


What kind of money are you looking for on the long block? and what kind of numbers do they put down compared to a 2.0 stock vs stock?

streetlamp

big 16g ftw

Hybrid AWD

The EVO exhaust manifold has a larger collector volume than the 2nd gen manifold, and is an upgrade in stock form.

so yep it's an upgrade.