1aznTT

I've decided to create a new thread as the last was focused on specifically my suspicion of my sound system causing my battery to drain.

This is not the case.

Cliff Notes from Last thread for searching purposes to help those in future:

Draining battery in 2000 Corvette; After market sound system, 2 big amps and 10"s; After market head unit; After disconnecting the gaged wire - battery stops draining for a bit. I have come to find out it just doesn't drain as fast maybe. Because my battery is still draining.

So; I get a new battery because someone suggested it might still test good even if it has a bad cell, because it's been drained so many times; I install new battery and keep the sound system completely off this time; Battery drains and dies;

So now i remove the sound system's gaged wire from the battery and I ALSO remove ALL radio, head unit, stereo, stock system - music related fuses in the mini-fuses box in passenger toe board.
Jumped the car; Drove for 1.2 hours. Parked. Went to bed. 16 hours late, go to start car, car starts, once. I turn it off, satisfied; Then go downstairs to go out and it won't start! Battery dead AGAIN!


So with the system out - I while i've been on the road the past few times in it after jumping - i have noticed my Stock dash "security light" comes on. I'm thinking, the main things that SHOULD Be on still when the car is off:
Security system
Power door locks
Power Seats
Power mirrors

...So I look for the security fuse - I can't find one, not one thing in either my fuse box under the hood or in the floor board will work;

I read another forum which suggested maybe a vanity light was on, but i already taped these shut before my final attempt (the vanity mirrors).

The hood lamp hasn't worked since i got the vehicle - someone suggested this, I open the hood, look at the courtesy light under the hood to find it's a broken bulb.

So...now what? Anyone know how to disable the security system?

Any other suggestions? I don't want to blow through another battery - as i'm sure continuing this process of draining is just nothing but bad for it.

Car runs clean and great when it's running - alternator runs good - the voltage doesn't go down even after hours of driving. And I can get out for like 20 minutes-1 hour and then it'll still start (apparently 16 hours)..so it's something SLOWLY draining this...

Thanks much guys, sorry for the long thread <3

JamesPrelude

I know it's a dumb question, but did you check your alternator? Could be a coincidence that it went the same time you put in your new equipment...

Newbsauce

I believe the security system is on a circuit breaker rather then a fuse. You've totally ruled out interior lights? (aka pulled your interior fuses) I would definitely pull the fuses to the power mirrors or seats and rule all that out before you go extreme (security system).

RandomTask

bust out the multimeter and you could prob figure it it out in about 20 min. Lemme know if you need help.

1aznTT

God i'm just a dumb chick lol I don't know wtf a multi meter is - you mean a volt meter?
K.
Gotcha.

---Also, I pulled all the obvious internal fuses.
I'm going to start her up tomorrow - jump her i mean haha...
and give it a shot

And yes, I'd say the alternator is good after driving it 3 hours or so w/o failing voltage - i think that's right - but GREAT suggestion - keep them coming. Since i've pulled the power seats / power etc i will test this tomorrow.
<3

RandomTask

Yeah, basically start taking out fuses, stick the black terminal in one side, the red in the other (doesn't matter if you get it backwards, it will just read it as (-) ) Switch to current (A) and check for a draw. Go through all your fuses until you find which one has a significant draw on it (some of them might have a couple of milliamps if there is something that requires memory on that circuit.) Then you can start checking whats on that circuit.

Fabrik8

It's possible you have a failing body control module also, it may be bleeding current all the time but it might only show up while the battery isn't being charged.

1aznTT

Thanks to the description above this post for the volt meter, appreciate it.

--Thanks Fabrik...is that hard to fix and is there a way to test for that too?

SpeedJunkie

That is where I would put my money.

vmspionage

I agree with the BCM suggestion. Have you pulled the codes yet?