lol, hell yeah man, how quick is it with the h23?? i dont want that motor but i would guess it would be decent.

 

all engines have their pluses and minuses. All you have to do is figure out what you want. Turbo b16 is one of the easiest routes to go, with starting it out NA and gradually working to turbo status. A lot of people on here have gone that route and can give you lots of ideas, comments, and a big list of "don't fucking do's". It sounds to me like you want to do some straight line, drag racing, or highway racing. b16 is an excellent engine for that. Keep the rev's high and you won't have a problem. The only thing I have found about the b16 is that if you don't have a VAFC, you don't get the whole joy of vtec because most people don't live at 5500 rpm. b18's have a lot of low end torque, which is what I want because I plan to track race my engine. h22'ing your engine with the description you just gave us all is also another venue. They are coming out with a lot more stuff for that engine- I believe a new set of cams came out for it by Jim Wolf, look it up in SCC.

www.honda-tech.com
www.honda-hookup.com

these two places will give you a wealth of knowledge, just got to pick through the bullshit.

 

the b16 is what i thought about before, but i was told they werent very reliable. A couple of my buddies have b16s and it seems like they lose a little power, but thats prolly cuz they run the shit out of em. Ill look in to the b16. Thanks for all your info man, its nice to know you can come on here and get some info without everyone bieng an ass about it. thanks again

 

save your money, buy an h22a, it would be a nice swap, alot of work but a nice swap. Once you do it, it gets easier and easier to pull and drop.

 

what would i do. b20 turbo,vtec. fucking right doggie.

 

I would go with an H22, that weight difference wouldn't be much different then putting a turbo on a B series... I mean c'mon 400-600 CC's of aluminum? that isn't exactly a ton...

 

"I have an H22 in my g2 and there is a very lagre ammount of custom work involved. First off in order for the motor to fit you must massage the passenger frame rail and notch the rear cross member for the tranny. THen you must cut off the passenger tranny mount on the car and reweld a new mount housing. the front and rear also need relocating. the driver side is the easiest you just need a half inch flat bar to space out the driver mount.

Now you have the engine in you need axles. The driver side is a 90-93 outer cv and shaft with a prelude tripod and inner joint. they interchange perfectly. The passenger side you need a 89 teg shaft with the same inner as the driver side.

The shifting is cable of which you have to cut your floor under your console to fit the shifter. the actual shft arm needs some bending to fit under the factory console. then you drill a 2 inch hole in the firewall just behind the steering rack for the cables to go through then they just hook up. THe clutch is opperated by the stock integra cable pulling an arm that actuates the hydraulic cylinder to operate the clutch.

The intake manifold must also be cusomized. Sotck size is about 5 inches to long so you need to hack off the plennum and weld your own custom can. It works great and the best thing about it is you can use any throttle body you want, I used a 65mm mustang throttle body.

The wiring is another story one of which you have many options, adapt the factory harness which would take a large ammount of time or you can save time and get something better you can go with a standalone where you completly install a fully progamable ecu. The choise is yours.

The speedo is a cable in the teg of which you can make a 99 prelude cluster work to allow you to run the vss speedo. the cluster fits well with little gaps you just need to shave the case a bit.

The rest is really self explanitory like exhaust and other things like heater hoses and oh yeah you can make the power steering work if you want but you need to make a pully system to clear the driver mount.

I hope my insight helps and if you have any other questions my website is www.lr-racing.com and i will have pics posted for you soon"

-H22g2integra
Tommy
------------------------------
I grabbed that for you from g2ic, you can find the thread here:
Gen2 Integra club

Look on the first page under "teg tips"

Should be some other useful info for you there.

 

i ran 13.6 at buds creek 113mph

 

What I would do:

-Forced Induction:
B20B long block, Jackson Racing supercharger or DRAG turbo setup, LS cams, LS intake manifold, GSR tranny, LSD-maybe Type R, GReddy e-Mangage or Hondata & an ACT clutch.

-NA:
B20Z longblock, B16 LSD tranny, Crower 62403 cams, Crower valvetrain components, Skunk2 IM, H22 TB, DC header, reprogrammed ECU, & ACT clutch.

headwork- valve job, porting and polishing, and gasket matching the ports on either, if you want to spend the extra $ and do it right for either one.

Pistons- 9:1 for turbo, 11-12:1 for NA

 

ive seen a complete swap for the h22 for $1900....want to go forced induction? then get an h23...those stock internals can hold boost better than an h22 can.....this thread seems to kind of down the h23, but with equal drivers in a prelude, the h23 lude is only .2 to .4 seconds slower then the h22....h series is best out of all other motors mentioned here for forced induction due to the better displacement...