Em1 Issues
I'm worse drugged
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 592
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From: Va beach
Re: Em1 Issues
let me get this straight. you reused the crank from a motor that was hydrolocked? doesn't sound promising.
who rebuilt the motor?
was the pistons rings clocked correctly?
to adjust idle. let the car fully warm up. pull the iacv plug. adjust the tb screw to have the car idle at around 500. turn car, off reset ecu, and plug iacv back.
who rebuilt the motor?
was the pistons rings clocked correctly?
to adjust idle. let the car fully warm up. pull the iacv plug. adjust the tb screw to have the car idle at around 500. turn car, off reset ecu, and plug iacv back.
Thread Starter
Busa Cap
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 601
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From: Smith-vegas
Re: Em1 Issues
We found no problems with the crank, my dad rebuilt it, as far as i know he gapped the rings correctly, and what is the correct idle for a jdm b16 a?
Last edited by Tmac85; Jan 26, 2007 at 11:23 AM.
Thread Starter
Busa Cap
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 601
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From: Smith-vegas
Re: Em1 Issues
Yeah stock si, I NEED HELP WITH THE WHEEL BEARING TONIGHT ANY TECH WHO WANTS TO MAKE SOME ON THE SIDE CASH PLEASE HELP ME CALL 757- 813-8552, MONEY WILL COME AFTER JOB IS FINISHED ASK FOR TYLER
Last edited by Tmac85; Jan 26, 2007 at 05:31 PM.
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Joined: Nov 2006
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Re: Em1 Issues
For the break in... The first time you started it should have been just to reach operating temperature and then shut it off to cool down. Change the oil after that.
Then do like 33% pull, decel, pull, decel, for about 15min, then turn the car off and let it cool down. I would change the oil after that too, but I'm kinda overprotective..
Next do 66% same as before. Again, I would change the oil, but a lot of people say its unnecessary.
Next do WOT, same as before. Once again, I would change the oil, but a lot of people say its unnecessary..
Most shops then recommend 1500 miles of easy driving and then switch to synthetic. I only change the oil because of all the metal particles that come off during the ring seating process, which is what all of break in is...
What he meant with the rings being clocked correctly was..
Are the ring "gaps" on the opposite side of each other?
.006" per inch of bore is a pretty good way to do ring gap. But in all honesty, in the ballpark will probably do.. So if you do pull the engine apart, you can at least have an idea of what to look for as far as ring gaps go.. More than likely, the cylinders are glazed over..
Then do like 33% pull, decel, pull, decel, for about 15min, then turn the car off and let it cool down. I would change the oil after that too, but I'm kinda overprotective..
Next do 66% same as before. Again, I would change the oil, but a lot of people say its unnecessary.
Next do WOT, same as before. Once again, I would change the oil, but a lot of people say its unnecessary..
Most shops then recommend 1500 miles of easy driving and then switch to synthetic. I only change the oil because of all the metal particles that come off during the ring seating process, which is what all of break in is...
What he meant with the rings being clocked correctly was..
Are the ring "gaps" on the opposite side of each other?
.006" per inch of bore is a pretty good way to do ring gap. But in all honesty, in the ballpark will probably do.. So if you do pull the engine apart, you can at least have an idea of what to look for as far as ring gaps go.. More than likely, the cylinders are glazed over..