help...easiest way for 35's
I'm a wrangler guy and untill just recently everything they've produced has sucked balls. Complete lifts with all new leaf packs that sag, not talking add a leaf here, all new leafs, assembled by RC that sag a bunch
thats good to know, is pro comp lift kits pretty good? or does anybody know any other company thats decent?
x2 on Yota tech, I used that site ALOT on building my engine and everything, Them and Pirate 4x4...But then again they will tell you to save for a SAS 
My old Yota, You can see I had more room to play with on 32s and 3 inch BL
(I know its an 84-88, But its got a 92 Bed)


My old Yota, You can see I had more room to play with on 32s and 3 inch BL
(I know its an 84-88, But its got a 92 Bed)

Last edited by ShortyzKustomz; Mar 24, 2009 at 06:06 PM.
i was always a fan of skyjacker and brands of that sort
x2 on Yota tech, I used that site ALOT on building my engine and everything, Them and Pirate 4x4...But then again they will tell you to save for a SAS 
My old Yota, You can see I had more room to play with on 32s and 3 inch BL
(I know its an 84-88, But its got a 92 Bed)



My old Yota, You can see I had more room to play with on 32s and 3 inch BL
(I know its an 84-88, But its got a 92 Bed)


I've been looking around, found this lift kit for $840. anybody ever had a lift by "Superlift," and does anybody know if I can get a lift for less...
http://ultimateautoaccessories.com/p...source=Froogle
Last edited by SJK; Mar 25, 2009 at 01:27 PM.
Are you re-gearing with the 35's? The cheapest lift is going to be Cranking torsion bars + ball joint spacer, 1" body lift and add-a-leafs in the rear. With this you are still going to have to do some triming (you won't be able to tell unless you look in the wheel wells) and pound the body seam flat on the back of the front wheel wells.
Prepare for a un-useable 5th gear. I run 33's on a 1" body lift, cranked torsion bars and add-a-leafs in the rear. Truck has 4.56 gears and a aussie locker and other goodies.
Prepare for a un-useable 5th gear. I run 33's on a 1" body lift, cranked torsion bars and add-a-leafs in the rear. Truck has 4.56 gears and a aussie locker and other goodies.
Are you re-gearing with the 35's? The cheapest lift is going to be Cranking torsion bars + ball joint spacer, 1" body lift and add-a-leafs in the rear. With this you are still going to have to do some triming (you won't be able to tell unless you look in the wheel wells) and pound the body seam flat on the back of the front wheel wells.
Prepare for a un-useable 5th gear. I run 33's on a 1" body lift, cranked torsion bars and add-a-leafs in the rear. Truck has 4.56 gears and a aussie locker and other goodies.

Prepare for a un-useable 5th gear. I run 33's on a 1" body lift, cranked torsion bars and add-a-leafs in the rear. Truck has 4.56 gears and a aussie locker and other goodies.

With the torsion bars cranked up and the ball joint spacers you are at the limit of "cheap" IFS lift. The next step is a bracket lift which is a lot more expensive. I personally would not go any higher than a 1" body lift. Too much headache with other little things and too much leaverage on the body mounting bolts. If my truck gets any more suspension work or lift it will be with a SAS.The front IFS is just too week to support a bigger tire than what I am running right now.





