Oil Pressure Sensor broke in block, why? (pics)
Screw the stock sensor back in, get a sandwich plate adapter(goes in front of oil filter) for the gauge( or whatever else you have) and be done with it.
http://www.goldeneaglemfg.com/str_vtec.html
IMO your honda tuner guy, should of known it is not a good idea to T off the stock location. This is a common problem with people who do this.
Take it to kienan
http://www.goldeneaglemfg.com/str_vtec.html
IMO your honda tuner guy, should of known it is not a good idea to T off the stock location. This is a common problem with people who do this.
Take it to kienan
Last edited by JETSWU87; Aug 31, 2008 at 10:20 PM.
By the way, exactly how big is that sending unit? That thing looks giant in the picture compared to the size of that adapter.
The sending unit should be fine, and as long as you can clear the old brass from the block, you should be able to remount and use the sending unit.
We usually use a short piece of flex line between the sender and the block, and mount the sender to something like the engine or the chassis with a bracket.
Don't worry about pressure drop or anything in a flex line, I don't know where people got that idea. There isn't any flow through the line, so there isn't any pressure drop. Just make sure you get as much air out of the line as you can, so the pressure isn't affected by an pocket getting squeezed. If you put the sender lower than the bung on the block, the air will bleed out of the line automatically (fill the line with oil first) but make sure you don't have any leaks at the fittings..
Anyway though, if you go that route, the sender is firmly secured to something strong, and you don't have a weight on a stick bouncing around at the frequency of the engine.
The sending unit should be fine, and as long as you can clear the old brass from the block, you should be able to remount and use the sending unit.
We usually use a short piece of flex line between the sender and the block, and mount the sender to something like the engine or the chassis with a bracket.
Don't worry about pressure drop or anything in a flex line, I don't know where people got that idea. There isn't any flow through the line, so there isn't any pressure drop. Just make sure you get as much air out of the line as you can, so the pressure isn't affected by an pocket getting squeezed. If you put the sender lower than the bung on the block, the air will bleed out of the line automatically (fill the line with oil first) but make sure you don't have any leaks at the fittings..
Anyway though, if you go that route, the sender is firmly secured to something strong, and you don't have a weight on a stick bouncing around at the frequency of the engine.
hey actually fuck face, he said what I would have. As I broke off a cheap brass adapter in my intake manifold on my 302(was used for water temp). All too often, people get cheap brass and just over tighten that shit. What more do I need to say when I quoted the exact answer to what the OP asked? 4rlz chill doucheclops
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