what does it mean when a synchro is going bad??
08-31-2011, 05:13 PM
#11
VaDriven Mayhem
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08-31-2011, 05:15 PM
#12
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Re: what does it mean when a synchro is going bad??
The gears in your transmission are all spinning at different speeds.
When you get ready to shift, you press in the clutch. This disconnects the input shaft from the engine and allows it to free spin when you're in neutral...
But you're not in neutral. You're in 4th at 5,000 RPM. When you go to 5th, you'd normally be at like 3,500.
Your synchro is like a little cone shaped clutch right next to the gears in your transmission. There is one for each gear.
As the name suggests, it synchronizes the input shaft with the gear you're getting ready to shift into. So, as you go from 4th to 5th, the synchro slows the input shaft from 5,000 RPM to 3,500 RPM before the gears mesh together.
Because your 5th gear synchro is dying/dead, when you try and immediately shift from 4th to 5th, the input shaft of the transmission is still spinning at 5,000 RPM when the 5th gear is spinning at 3,500 RPM. The result is a loud grinding noise.
The solution to a bad synchro is a transmission rebuild. You can try a thicker transmission oil, but that's only a temporary solution.
Was this your first car? Usually when I see a bad 5th gear synchro, it's because someone learned to drive manual on it and missed 3rd too many times, instead going from 2nd to 5th.
Back in the day, transmissions did not come with synchros. You HAD to double clutch. You can double clutch and drive the car FOREVER if you like, it does not cause any damage. You should be familiar with your car if you want to successfully do it because all the RPM numbers I'm putting in this post are just approximations. They'll vary based on gear ratios in your particular car.
1.) You are in 4th at 5,000 RPM. You want to upshift to 5th. (Normally at 5th you'd be at 3,500 RPM.)
2.) You press the clutch and shift to neutral.
3.) Transmission STILL in neutral, you let the clutch up.
4.) Wait till the engine is at 3,500 RPM. (Input shaft will also be at 3,500 RPM.)
5.) Press clutch down and shift to 5th.
OR
1.) You're in 5th at 3,500 RPM and want to downshift to 4th to pass some slowpoke. (Normally in 4th, you'd be at 5,000 RPM.)
2.) You press the clutch and shift to neutral.
3.) Transmission STILL in neutral, you let the clutch up.
4.) Tap the throttle till the engine is at 5,000 RPM. (Input shaft will also be at 5,000 RPM.)
5.) Press clutch down and shift to 4th.
Like I said, it takes a lot of familiarity with your car and takes a bit of practice to do it right. Eventually, you can actually shift without using the clutch except for taking off... It's also the basis for Heel-Toe shifting if you're into Autocross, road racing, or rally.
As far as your engine oil leak is concerned, 1 quart low won't hurt you too much. You can run your engine forever with this oil leak if you like... However, eventually, it'll get a whole lotta dirt stuck to everything under your hood and you'll probably get sick of paying for oil.
Temporary solution, run 20w50 oil. It's thicker so it'll leak out slower. It will cost you a mile per gallon or so in fuel economy.
Fix the problem. Oil pan gaskets, Valve cover gaskets, and cam and crank seals are all cheap and easy to put in.
When you get ready to shift, you press in the clutch. This disconnects the input shaft from the engine and allows it to free spin when you're in neutral...
But you're not in neutral. You're in 4th at 5,000 RPM. When you go to 5th, you'd normally be at like 3,500.
Your synchro is like a little cone shaped clutch right next to the gears in your transmission. There is one for each gear.
As the name suggests, it synchronizes the input shaft with the gear you're getting ready to shift into. So, as you go from 4th to 5th, the synchro slows the input shaft from 5,000 RPM to 3,500 RPM before the gears mesh together.
Because your 5th gear synchro is dying/dead, when you try and immediately shift from 4th to 5th, the input shaft of the transmission is still spinning at 5,000 RPM when the 5th gear is spinning at 3,500 RPM. The result is a loud grinding noise.
The solution to a bad synchro is a transmission rebuild. You can try a thicker transmission oil, but that's only a temporary solution.
Was this your first car? Usually when I see a bad 5th gear synchro, it's because someone learned to drive manual on it and missed 3rd too many times, instead going from 2nd to 5th.
Back in the day, transmissions did not come with synchros. You HAD to double clutch. You can double clutch and drive the car FOREVER if you like, it does not cause any damage. You should be familiar with your car if you want to successfully do it because all the RPM numbers I'm putting in this post are just approximations. They'll vary based on gear ratios in your particular car.
1.) You are in 4th at 5,000 RPM. You want to upshift to 5th. (Normally at 5th you'd be at 3,500 RPM.)
2.) You press the clutch and shift to neutral.
3.) Transmission STILL in neutral, you let the clutch up.
4.) Wait till the engine is at 3,500 RPM. (Input shaft will also be at 3,500 RPM.)
5.) Press clutch down and shift to 5th.
OR
1.) You're in 5th at 3,500 RPM and want to downshift to 4th to pass some slowpoke. (Normally in 4th, you'd be at 5,000 RPM.)
2.) You press the clutch and shift to neutral.
3.) Transmission STILL in neutral, you let the clutch up.
4.) Tap the throttle till the engine is at 5,000 RPM. (Input shaft will also be at 5,000 RPM.)
5.) Press clutch down and shift to 4th.
Like I said, it takes a lot of familiarity with your car and takes a bit of practice to do it right. Eventually, you can actually shift without using the clutch except for taking off... It's also the basis for Heel-Toe shifting if you're into Autocross, road racing, or rally.
As far as your engine oil leak is concerned, 1 quart low won't hurt you too much. You can run your engine forever with this oil leak if you like... However, eventually, it'll get a whole lotta dirt stuck to everything under your hood and you'll probably get sick of paying for oil.
Temporary solution, run 20w50 oil. It's thicker so it'll leak out slower. It will cost you a mile per gallon or so in fuel economy.
Fix the problem. Oil pan gaskets, Valve cover gaskets, and cam and crank seals are all cheap and easy to put in.
09-01-2011, 05:13 AM
#13
Fitty Tuckin
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Re: what does it mean when a synchro is going bad??
The gears in your transmission are all spinning at different speeds.
When you get ready to shift, you press in the clutch. This disconnects the input shaft from the engine and allows it to free spin when you're in neutral...
But you're not in neutral. You're in 4th at 5,000 RPM. When you go to 5th, you'd normally be at like 3,500.
Your synchro is like a little cone shaped clutch right next to the gears in your transmission. There is one for each gear.
As the name suggests, it synchronizes the input shaft with the gear you're getting ready to shift into. So, as you go from 4th to 5th, the synchro slows the input shaft from 5,000 RPM to 3,500 RPM before the gears mesh together.
Because your 5th gear synchro is dying/dead, when you try and immediately shift from 4th to 5th, the input shaft of the transmission is still spinning at 5,000 RPM when the 5th gear is spinning at 3,500 RPM. The result is a loud grinding noise.
The solution to a bad synchro is a transmission rebuild. You can try a thicker transmission oil, but that's only a temporary solution.
Was this your first car? Usually when I see a bad 5th gear synchro, it's because someone learned to drive manual on it and missed 3rd too many times, instead going from 2nd to 5th.
Back in the day, transmissions did not come with synchros. You HAD to double clutch. You can double clutch and drive the car FOREVER if you like, it does not cause any damage. You should be familiar with your car if you want to successfully do it because all the RPM numbers I'm putting in this post are just approximations. They'll vary based on gear ratios in your particular car.
1.) You are in 4th at 5,000 RPM. You want to upshift to 5th. (Normally at 5th you'd be at 3,500 RPM.)
2.) You press the clutch and shift to neutral.
3.) Transmission STILL in neutral, you let the clutch up.
4.) Wait till the engine is at 3,500 RPM. (Input shaft will also be at 3,500 RPM.)
5.) Press clutch down and shift to 5th.
OR
1.) You're in 5th at 3,500 RPM and want to downshift to 4th to pass some slowpoke. (Normally in 4th, you'd be at 5,000 RPM.)
2.) You press the clutch and shift to neutral.
3.) Transmission STILL in neutral, you let the clutch up.
4.) Tap the throttle till the engine is at 5,000 RPM. (Input shaft will also be at 5,000 RPM.)
5.) Press clutch down and shift to 4th.
Like I said, it takes a lot of familiarity with your car and takes a bit of practice to do it right. Eventually, you can actually shift without using the clutch except for taking off... It's also the basis for Heel-Toe shifting if you're into Autocross, road racing, or rally.
As far as your engine oil leak is concerned, 1 quart low won't hurt you too much. You can run your engine forever with this oil leak if you like... However, eventually, it'll get a whole lotta dirt stuck to everything under your hood and you'll probably get sick of paying for oil.
Temporary solution, run 20w50 oil. It's thicker so it'll leak out slower. It will cost you a mile per gallon or so in fuel economy.
Fix the problem. Oil pan gaskets, Valve cover gaskets, and cam and crank seals are all cheap and easy to put in.
When you get ready to shift, you press in the clutch. This disconnects the input shaft from the engine and allows it to free spin when you're in neutral...
But you're not in neutral. You're in 4th at 5,000 RPM. When you go to 5th, you'd normally be at like 3,500.
Your synchro is like a little cone shaped clutch right next to the gears in your transmission. There is one for each gear.
As the name suggests, it synchronizes the input shaft with the gear you're getting ready to shift into. So, as you go from 4th to 5th, the synchro slows the input shaft from 5,000 RPM to 3,500 RPM before the gears mesh together.
Because your 5th gear synchro is dying/dead, when you try and immediately shift from 4th to 5th, the input shaft of the transmission is still spinning at 5,000 RPM when the 5th gear is spinning at 3,500 RPM. The result is a loud grinding noise.
The solution to a bad synchro is a transmission rebuild. You can try a thicker transmission oil, but that's only a temporary solution.
Was this your first car? Usually when I see a bad 5th gear synchro, it's because someone learned to drive manual on it and missed 3rd too many times, instead going from 2nd to 5th.
Back in the day, transmissions did not come with synchros. You HAD to double clutch. You can double clutch and drive the car FOREVER if you like, it does not cause any damage. You should be familiar with your car if you want to successfully do it because all the RPM numbers I'm putting in this post are just approximations. They'll vary based on gear ratios in your particular car.
1.) You are in 4th at 5,000 RPM. You want to upshift to 5th. (Normally at 5th you'd be at 3,500 RPM.)
2.) You press the clutch and shift to neutral.
3.) Transmission STILL in neutral, you let the clutch up.
4.) Wait till the engine is at 3,500 RPM. (Input shaft will also be at 3,500 RPM.)
5.) Press clutch down and shift to 5th.
OR
1.) You're in 5th at 3,500 RPM and want to downshift to 4th to pass some slowpoke. (Normally in 4th, you'd be at 5,000 RPM.)
2.) You press the clutch and shift to neutral.
3.) Transmission STILL in neutral, you let the clutch up.
4.) Tap the throttle till the engine is at 5,000 RPM. (Input shaft will also be at 5,000 RPM.)
5.) Press clutch down and shift to 4th.
Like I said, it takes a lot of familiarity with your car and takes a bit of practice to do it right. Eventually, you can actually shift without using the clutch except for taking off... It's also the basis for Heel-Toe shifting if you're into Autocross, road racing, or rally.
As far as your engine oil leak is concerned, 1 quart low won't hurt you too much. You can run your engine forever with this oil leak if you like... However, eventually, it'll get a whole lotta dirt stuck to everything under your hood and you'll probably get sick of paying for oil.
Temporary solution, run 20w50 oil. It's thicker so it'll leak out slower. It will cost you a mile per gallon or so in fuel economy.
Fix the problem. Oil pan gaskets, Valve cover gaskets, and cam and crank seals are all cheap and easy to put in.
How the fuck is he suppose to understand that when he can't even use google to search for what a synchro is?
Wouldn't have been better to say it allows the shift forks to slide onto the gear he is choosing and when a syncrho goes bad this is when you experience gears grinding and the lack of ability to get it into that gear.
I say trade it for a pitbull though.
09-01-2011, 09:00 AM
#16
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Re: what does it mean when a synchro is going bad??
do you mean you have to double clutch ?Also you dont know how to take care of your car, refilling your motor with oil is not gonna fix the problem u dunse the leak will only get worse. Why dont you start off by inspecting it to c where it is leaking from and get that fixed.
09-01-2011, 09:12 AM
#17
Slappin Curtis
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Re: what does it mean when a synchro is going bad??
do you mean you have to double clutch ?Also you dont know how to take care of your car, refilling your motor with oil is not gonna fix the problem u dunse the leak will only get worse. Why dont you start off by inspecting it to c where it is leaking from and get that fixed.
09-01-2011, 01:30 PM
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Re: what does it mean when a synchro is going bad??
09-02-2011, 09:55 AM
#20
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Re: what does it mean when a synchro is going bad??
How the fuck is he suppose to understand that when he can't even use google to search for what a synchro is?
Wouldn't have been better to say it allows the shift forks to slide onto the gear he is choosing and when a syncrho goes bad this is when you experience gears grinding and the lack of ability to get it into that gear.
Wouldn't have been better to say it allows the shift forks to slide onto the gear he is choosing and when a syncrho goes bad this is when you experience gears grinding and the lack of ability to get it into that gear.
C'mon now man, we were all noobs at one point. Cars are complex enough without people spreading wrong info... Especially if he never had anyone to teach him.
I never learned from Google. I use Google to get Factory Service Manuals and the like.
I learned from my father who had a Volvo 240 Wagon from the Mid 70's that ended up being my first car in 2000. No 5th gear, no reverse, bad camshaft bearings... However the choice between a free car and taking the bus to school was easy to make. If I wanted that car running, I'd have to do the work and luckily, a Haynes manual was included.
Sometimes people just need a hand.