hey my name is zack and i need help...duh

ok i have a 1991 crx si with a d16z6 in it. the motor is like a 96-97(not sure) and my wiring is obd0 and the motor is odb1. the distributor odb0. and my ecu is the stock crx si one. i know the d16z6 needs the p32 to start the odb1 conversion. i know i need the jumper harness and vtec harness.... anything else im missing?......also ive herd you can keep it obd0 and use a vafc. is this true? what will i need? which vafc would work if it will. please help me out! and if the vafc will work, someone please sell it to me. also i know my motor is sohc and my name is dohc(plans for the future)so im not a complete idiot.thanks
Zack

 

:SEARCH:

 

get a obdo b16a ecu or obd0-0bd1 conversion harness and wire the vtec up from the ecu

 

WOW!!!JUST BUY THE JUMPER HARNESS AND GO OVER TO OBD-1 I CAN HELP U PUT THE HARNESS IN UR CAR FOR A LIL CASH

 

When I had a D16y8 in my old CRX I used a PR3 obd0 ecu and wired in VTEC and it ran fine. I used CRX si Intake manifold and CRX si Distributor.

 

The OBD0 PR3 or PW0 would be the easiest. The only thing left to do is to wire the vtec, the second O2, and a knock sensor to run correctly. With everyone doing OBD1 conversions...a PR3/PW0 shouldn't be that hard to find.

Now the OBD1 P28/P30/P61/P72 with a conversion harness would be my choice. With OBD1 you only have to wire the vtec and convert your nonheated O2 sensor over to a heated O2. There's no knock sensor. Also you have to change over to a OBD1 distributor.

The bonus here is that in the future when your ready to tune, all you'll have to do is buy a Hondata S100 and tune away!

 

It would be easiest to go obd1, p28 go for around 100 bucks, d16z6 dizzy's go for around 50, and if you search ebay you can get a conversion harness for like 70-100 bucks sometimes less. The only other thing you would have to get would be a obds 4-wire o2 sensor.

 

I think the word you were looking for then you said that it would be easiest...would be "best", like in...it would be best to go OBD1.
Now "easiest" would mean which would be the lowest cost & quickest to install...which would be the OBD0 route

OR...

you could keep everything OBD0, change nothing and just run an SAFC&VTEC controller and call it a day.

Either way, these are your options.

 

BTW, don't try to rewire and use a OBD0 distributor with an OBD1 ECU, it won't work.

The only difference between an OBD0 and an OBD1 is that the OBD0 CYP "cylinder position sensor" has 16 teeth where the OBD1&2 has 24 teeth.
This is why the distributor"s OBD has to match the ECU's OBD.

 

Yeah, your right I meant best.