torquing rod bolts
#1
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torquing rod bolts
so i got the bottom end mostly assembled, still need a waterpump and timing belt...
my setup:
-z6 block
-a6 rods/pistons
-clevit rod bearings
-acl main bearings and thrust washers
-z6 head gasket
-a6 head (to stay obd0)
it's starting to look more like an engine!!!
okay, enough pic whoring... my question:
the rod bolts themselves have about 170k miles on them. I replaced the bearings and rings, but torquing the caps down... my hanyes manual says 33 ft/lbs... i went ahead and did 33.5
does it even make a difference? i figured they must have stretched a little bit... or did i just screw myself over? haha... any input would be appreciated
~Tim
my setup:
-z6 block
-a6 rods/pistons
-clevit rod bearings
-acl main bearings and thrust washers
-z6 head gasket
-a6 head (to stay obd0)
it's starting to look more like an engine!!!
okay, enough pic whoring... my question:
the rod bolts themselves have about 170k miles on them. I replaced the bearings and rings, but torquing the caps down... my hanyes manual says 33 ft/lbs... i went ahead and did 33.5
does it even make a difference? i figured they must have stretched a little bit... or did i just screw myself over? haha... any input would be appreciated
~Tim
#2
Re: torquing rod bolts
this is jus a thought but i got a set of arp rod studs for my b18 from summit racing for 30 bucks and the came to days later. if your unsure then i would say thats a 30 worth spendin.
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Re: torquing rod bolts
yeah, i wouldnt build a motor using stock head bolts. It might not matter in the long run, but then again it MIGHT. i agree with 92gsrteg, its worth spending the 30 dollars to have that extra insurance.
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Re: torquing rod bolts
You are running a stock motor, no performance upgrades, just a simple OEM rebuild...
I would say trust the torque spec and make sure your torque wrench is actually calibrated within 5%.
The safest way to torque a majorly important bolt is to use a bolt stretch gauge btw, if you are unsure of what you should torque to, get a dial indicator and tighten to the stretch specification.
Also, forgot to mention...
Since you have the block out of the car, you should have it decked.. Also have the head resurfaced.
I would say trust the torque spec and make sure your torque wrench is actually calibrated within 5%.
The safest way to torque a majorly important bolt is to use a bolt stretch gauge btw, if you are unsure of what you should torque to, get a dial indicator and tighten to the stretch specification.
Also, forgot to mention...
Since you have the block out of the car, you should have it decked.. Also have the head resurfaced.
Last edited by Hatch Man(GsR); 02-04-2009 at 08:09 PM.
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Re: torquing rod bolts
ok, im still confused. i tightened the rod bolts to 33.5
did i screw everything up? the oem torque spec is 33 ft/lbs but since they have 170k miles on them, i figured they might have streched a little bit.
did i screw everything up? the oem torque spec is 33 ft/lbs but since they have 170k miles on them, i figured they might have streched a little bit.
#6
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Re: torquing rod bolts
I'd worry more about reusing the rod studs than whether the torque spec is off or not. Reusing 170k OEM rod fasteners isn't a great way to do a rebuild.
#7
Re: torquing rod bolts
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...997+115+400295
just go to that link or copy and paste it in your browser. insert your address and card number, problem solved
just go to that link or copy and paste it in your browser. insert your address and card number, problem solved
#8
Re: torquing rod bolts
replace the blotz , but you do realize that you can't just tighten the blots to 33lbs and call it a day, there is a progression on tightening the and a pattern. I don't know what the exact torque specs are but when I put the head on d15 I had to start in the middle on 17lbs work my way to the outside in a circular pattern then go back w/ 33lbs.
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Re: torquing rod bolts
replace the blotz , but you do realize that you can't just tighten the blots to 33lbs and call it a day, there is a progression on tightening the and a pattern. I don't know what the exact torque specs are but when I put the head on d15 I had to start in the middle on 17lbs work my way to the outside in a circular pattern then go back w/ 33lbs.
that's head bolts... not rod bolts... and i did it in 2 steps if that makes you any happier.
so you guys are saying remove the pistons again and get arp rod bolts too?