ricedoutaccord

I have a h22a with engine work done . the car was tuned about 1 year ago or so it seems to have spark knock when it get hot outside. im using the stock ngk plugs not the platinum. im running premium fuel also. the car seems not to do it as bad with a octane booster fuel additive. I was told I can change the gap on the plugs and that would help but the person that told me wasn't sure if I need to open the gap or close it .if that's true what way should I got any advise would be helpful short on the funds to get it retuned... thanks for the help

The Guy

Do you run it hard? Like high rpms vtak all the time?

Fabrik8

Changing the plug gap won't help. If the pre-ignition is caused by the spark plugs acting like glow plugs because they're getting too hot, changing the gap won't do anything. They'll still get too hot, but now they'll have a bigger gap. So if it's the plugs, going to a colder temp range plug might help.

I'd get it tuned a little better, because it doesn't sound like it was tuned very well at higher intake air temps. Are you using an ECU without a knock sensor?

ricedoutaccord

no I don't really run the car hard. I keep it just under vtec (5200) rpm .only in it hard sometimes but not to high rpms maybe (7500) rpm it does have a light weight fly wheel and all what does make the rpms drop when the intial take off I can make the car not do it by riding the clutch the car was tuned in feb and it has a obd1 ecu with hondata s300 the no knock sensor.
thanks

Fabrik8

The flywheel has nothing to do with it. It's just a flywheel.

Sounds like it needs more tuning, especially if there is no knock sensor to rein in the ignition timing.

ricedoutaccord

i know its not the flywheel causing it to spark knock but i know it has a effect on the reciprocating mass which has effect on intinal take off. thats why i was saying if i ride the clutch and keep the rpm up it will not spark knock. thanks on the pointers i will try the lower temp plugs and also talk to the tuner and see what he can do.

jdm monkey

lol wut?

by riding the clutch, your hitting a different map on the tuning, that's why it's not knocking. hahah
knock should be minimal if at all.

maybe u need to calibrate the iat correction.

ricedoutaccord

lol I dont know maybe thinking to hard about it. basically it comes down to the tune no matter what I do about it. could i retard the mechinal timming to make up for the tune ? since theres no knock sensor i pulled a plug out last night and checked them there burning clean with a lil carbon on it crappy pic but you can kinda tell i belive the red is the fuel additive i am using

Fabrik8

It's under lighter load when you're riding the clutch, that's why it's not knocking. Being in a different part of the fuel and ignition maps is not the reason that it stops knocking. Being at a lighter load is the reason it's not knocking. Being in a different part of the fuel and ignition maps is just the byproduct of being at a lighter load.



I punch you in the arm, you grab your arm, and start crying. (heavy load, go to that load/RPM area of the fuel & ign maps, start knocking)

If I don't punch you, you don't grab your arm, and you don't cry.

The reason you didn't cry is because I didn't punch you, not because you didn't grab your arm... Grabbing your arm doesn't make you cry, going to that load/RPM area of the fuel & ign maps doesn't make you start knocking... You need the punch in the arm, putting the engine under heavy load....See my point?


Yes, the tuning needs to be changed for the IAT. No, you don't want to change the mechanical timing, because then you will have a change in timing everywhere, under all conditions. You need better (or more thorough) tuning.

ricedoutaccord

thanks I will get ahold of shad and see what he can do