Re: safe to turbo 95gsr??
 

cant remember the compression off the top of my head i have it written down but its in my glove box....leak down test was not done not even sure what that is but anyways im not going to cheap on the t-kit if i do turbo it...it still pulls hard even with the high millage now...thanks for all the input guys

Re: safe to turbo 95gsr??
 

It will be ok with a good tune just dont buy an srt-4

Re: safe to turbo 95gsr??
 

yea i would'nt waste my money on a srt-4 cool car just not for me

Re: safe to turbo 95gsr??
 

i wouldn't boost it if you want reliability.. "if it's not broke don't touch it" is what i somewhat live by..

but you can boost it if everything checks out fine and you're willing to maintain it and do it right. just expect problems even if you do it right.

Re: safe to turbo 95gsr??
 

+1...and SRT-4s aren't that expensive. You could probably sell that GSR to some Honda nut-swinger for way more than it's worth, get an SRT and have reliable boost. BTW, I've got an 01 Prelude all stock with 41,000 original miles if anyone wants to trade. Boosting an NA car is opening a can of worms and you have to be prepared and expect things to go wrong no matter how good the build is.

Re: safe to turbo 95gsr??
 

boost... nothing to lose.... j/k.... stay NA until yo have money to rebuild your engine.... boost will give you many troubles

Re: safe to turbo 95gsr??
 

no it wont.


maybe if you shortcut steps, it will, but if you dont, you will be fine.

Re: safe to turbo 95gsr??
 

I love when people think you have to build a motor to boost it. This site gives some of the worst advice.

While having a motor built for boost would be great, its far from necessary.

I do like Jake's advice though, boost the piss out of that bitch. :thup:

Re: safe to turbo 95gsr??
 

:thup: to the first 2 lines.

:thup::thdown: well actually :thup: to the last line also.

lol

Re: safe to turbo 95gsr??
 

Ok, no "short cut steps" means the following for the 95 GSR poster:

[=] Turbonetics, Garrett, Borg-Waner or Precision turbo.
[=] HKS, Greddy, TiAL or -some- Turbonetics Blow Off Valve
[=] " " Wastegate
[=] Intercooler piping
[=] Intercooler
[=] Turbo Manifold
[=] ARP Headstuds (based on the mileage on your stock ones so your head doesnt go lifting on you)
[=] 3mm Cometic Headgasket (to lower compression a bit, but, prone to blowing so whatever, just means lower psi [turbo dependent but pretty much all of them])

It's also not a B16, so I would suggest atleast ITR inner spring set for the ole head. But, the PROPER way would be to get ITR lost motion assemblies as well whenever you increase valve spring rate, though those are expensive and H22 LMA's can be used with a washer underneath them (sounds ghetto but, since the pressure on the LMAs is downward, no need to worry about the washer coming "loose" or something).

Then I didn't even get to proper fuel management. I'd recommend a Walbro IN TANK fuel pump. Larger injectors. Blox or B&M fuel pressure regulator (someone is bound to say its not necessary but then again.. opinions) NOT a FMU, VAFC, etc. If you DO go VAFC (it always happens to 1 out of 10 I recommend NOT getting it to) you will need something to somewhat control your timing as a VAFC does not do this, so consider a MSD 6BTM. Though, by the time you do that you could use Crome which is free (unless you want to datalog while useful only your tuner -absolutely- needs this function) which will control both ignition timing (not cam timing, dont confuse the two) and your fuel tables, in a nutshell though there is many other "tricks" to tuning than adjusting those two things (four things for those smart arses taking high cam into consideration :p).

Lets see.. oh, lines as well, so a stainless steel line for your turbo oil feed and then one for your drain (or you could go without a SS return line, but, I wouldnt, nothing like it becoming hot and bunching/pinching up and blowing your turbo seals). Have to tap your oil pan for the return. Dont forget the ever so essential boost gauge, oil pressure gauge AND EGT gauge (so many go without getting this, nothing like having too high of EGT's slowly but surely making your cyclinder walls ovalish and not knowing about it until its too late). Of course a wideband AFR gauge is nice too, even if you aren't tuning. But now we're getting into the "protect my engine" type of stuff that many dont get and then wonder, "gee, why did my shit break"... I would also highly recommend a damper, like ATI's damper or a Fluidamper (I run this on all three engines), only like $300-350 to protect how much of an investment. Talk to those that have spun a rod bearing while they had a crank shaft damper.. good luck finding one who wasnt putting out 700+ whp (and if you do, their builder sucks or they short cutted somewhere).

All the above, without a warranty. And I didn't even TOUCH building the engine up, just the essentials. So once again, after turbo'ing, throw reliability out the window, reliability that matches that of the way your engine stands right now. (Assuming the timing belt AND water pump were changed and oil is kept changed at regular intervals)

Have fun with it.