UnityRacing

I have to pump my brakes 1-2 times before they actually grab. First push does little unless I really mash on them. Here is what I did :

I upgraded my brakes today on my eclipse gst to some brake from a gsx. 1.8" rotor difference. Now have bigger drilled rotors, and dual piston calipers instead of single. All parts are used.
I used drilled rotors and had both turned, plenty of meat on them
I rebuilt the calipers, sandblasted them first, painted them, cleaned the pistons, and installed new seals with the pistons.
I reused the brake pads because they had alot of life left in them, almost new.
I bled the system with new brake fluid (dont recall the brand, but its snythetic, and says it exceeds dot 3+4)
I even bled the rears, and rebled the fronts with the motor running.

I stopped a few times at 10mph, in forward and reverse thinking I needed to reseat the pads. No help, but I did notice that braking in reverse was better than forward ??

I'm stumped. The system worked flawlessly on the donor car. All I did was turn the rotors and rebuild the calipers. I know the proportioning valve is different from the one that was used with these, but if anything that fact should improve the front braking by sending more power to the front.

Anyone ever seen this ??? Im stumped. I want to ask around first before I spend $$ on store bought rebuilt calipers. (thinking the pistons are binding)

I dont think it would matter but could I have installed the rotors on the wrong sides ?

ef9zc

sounds like you still have air in the brake lines i would rebleed them then go from there and make sure you are doing it in the correct order for your car i would look it up in the hanes manual gl

hondub

If you did all that to the braking system and then flushed new fluid in, you probably got air in the system or even left something loose. Check all the lines to make sure they're tight and then re-bleed. Loosen all 4 bleeder valves on the calipers at the same time and then just keep the reservoir full. It has to have fluid in it the whole time or you'll get air. After about 20 minutes, tighten the bleeder valves in this order. Right-rear, left-rear, right-front, left-front from the drivers perspective. Top off the master cylinder and then see how it does. Good luck

WqYn3

master cylinder is leaking, check it and see if you can tell if its been leaking. you prolly need to get a new one.

UnityRacing

Master cylinder was working fine before the upgrade, so I highly dought its that. And I did bleed it like stated above. Still the same, and no bubbles came out. I'm thinking the pistons are sticking....

King Dingaling

make sure you have no leaks, be sure to go back and install new copper washers if you didnt already. again make sure there are no leaks, make sure the calipers are on the correct side, if the bleeder is on the bottom its wrong and air will be in the system forever. if all this is done then bleed the brakes again right rear, left rear, right front, left front. untill there are no signs of air and make sure the fluid level never even comes close to being empty. if this doesnt fix it get some braided lines. they may be old and swell under the load that is always possible.

MaxPower

How big is your Master cylinder?

WqYn3

i still say its the master cylinder..

UnityRacing

Why would the master cyl go bad in 30 minutes ?
Worked fine before. Not leaking anything either.

master cyl's are the same size for either size rotor.

curt s

i would have to lean towards the possibility that there may be some kind of problem in either the calipers or the abs pump could still have air in it. there is a company if you end up having to go with new/rebuilt calipers that would ave you some money and they know what they are doing. They are custom caliper inc. # is 554-0008. they may can give you some better insight as well.