hey thanks for that link. i checked it out, it helped. and again to everyone just being the hopeless michael jackson loving faggot queers that you were born to be fuck you again! you all should have a big circle jerk, would bring you guys closer together!

 

depending on the setup dry kits have disadvantages of having an uneven spread of nitrous between the cylinders. wet kits have a problem with puddling of fuel in the cylinders if not tuned VERY well. wet setups are alot more invasive and it's almost imposible to go back to N/A once it's installed. Dry is easy on easy off, by comparison. wet will allow you to run much higher 'shot' of nitrous. purging is only useful for clearing the nitrous lines of air and other contaminants. but it looks cool as hell and can be intimidating...

 

hmm i dont see how it would be harder to go back to stock from a wet setup than it would be for a dry setup. dry runs the risk of runing the injectors past their max duty cycle and possibly breaking them. with either setup, youre going to need a retard box. if youre smart you wire the retard box into your setup so you are running full timing until you hit the gas. yes dumping too much fuel can be an issue, but if you know what youre doing this is avoided 99% of the time. nitrous backfires are more talked about than seen. but either setup has its own risks. i know id much rather use the wet setup.

 

all the tapping of the fuel rails and such. yes which is why you never see dry kits run more than a 100 shot more than once without a fuel system upgrade.

 

yea tapping the fuel rails isnt a GM thing. We hook into an existing schrader valve used for fuel pressure testing, so no drilling or anything. im not sure if it is that way for stangs though. i dont see too many imports wanting to run more than a 100 shot anyways. i ran a dry 75hp shot on a stock fuel system h23 prelude on stock heat range plugs and it never went lean.

 

It hooks up like this,

This is my old LT4 Direct port setup, rigged with some hand bent lines just to see how I should route the lines.

This is the best way to keep it hidden though,

 

damn manny

 

That motor will desamate all with about 10,000 dollars in overnight parts from Canada!!

 

hey reuter, ty for the info, i was only gonna use a 75 shot. i have a 6 cyl. so dry should still be fine because i dont really want high shot? thanks.

 

Here is some good info on Nitrous.

Nitrous Oxide


Dry Systems

For a dry system, you have a nozzle mounted approximately 6 inches in front of the throttle body. The nozzle injects only nitrous which is fed from the bottle, wherever it may be mounted. The additional fuel is provided through the fuel injectors requiring the computer to be essentially 'tricked' into thinking it has additional air coming in through the manifold (which essentially it does, but not in the way that it believes). The computer in turn tells the injectors to shoot more fuel into the cylinders. The injectors and fuel are under a load during nitrous injection, so it's a good idea to make sure your fuel pump and injectors can handle it. This will depend on what modifications are already done to your car besides the nitrous.

Pros: Does not have fuel flowing through the manifold so there is no worry of a puddling effect and a nitrous backfire in turn.

Cons: Relies on tricking the computer for its fuel supply. Anything that requires tricking the computer for such a vital element as fuel is not an intelligent way to approach anything, much less NITROUS INJECTION. Because the fuel is added through the injectors and the injectors all inject essentially the same amount of fuel and the nitrous is flowing through the manifold that does not apply equal air to all cylinders, the balance of air/fuel is going to be off. It'll be lean on some cylinders and rich on others.

Wet Systems

Wet systems are similar to dry systems. The only thing that is really different is the way the fuel is added to compensate for the nitrous. A wet system has a dual injection nozzle. It injects fuel along with nitrous into the air stream (6 inches in front of the throttle body), and the fuel is carried along with the nitrous into the engine compartment. This requires the dual injection nozzle to be connected to the fuel system. The fuel side of the injection nozzle is connected to a fuel solenoid, which is connected directly to the fuel rails, and the fuel solenoid opens at the same time the nitrous solenoid opens, which is when the system is armed and all conditions are met. You still must make sure you have a strong enough fuel pump to handle the fuel requirements of the nitrous injection.

Pros: Functions independently of the computer. The computer otherwise will not even know anything is going on during nitrous injection because of the way the fuel is supplied. Because the fuel and nitrous are added in together, the nitrous/fuel ratio will be the same, or at least very close to the same on each cylinder because the fuel and nitrous are flowing TOGETHER in the manifold.

Cons: Having fuel flowing through the manifold is not the safest thing in the world. Theoretically if you have enough air intake velocity (injection above 3,000RPM), you should not have to worry about a backfire, but that is not a sure science. If fuel puddles it can create a nitrous backfire that can damage the motor and/or intake system.
Direct Port Systems

Direct Port systems are very different from the dry and wet EFI systems. A direct port system has a nitrous injector and a fuel injector on EVERY cylinder. When the system is armed and fired both the fuel and nitrous injector do their thing. This method is safer because it bypasses the manifold entirely and does not rely on tricking the computer for its fuel supply.

Pros: Efficient. Safe. Powerful. By far the most advanced nitrous system on the market.

Cons: Expensive. By far the most expensive nitrous system on the market.

Written By Razorback

Nitrous oxide is a non-flammable compound of nitrogen and oxygen. At room temperature, nitrous oxide is a gas, but it is easily liquefied and stored under pressure. Technically, each molecule of nitrous oxide is comprised of two atoms of nitrogen bonded to one atom of oxygen. At temperatures above 565-575º F., nitrous oxide breaks down into separate nitrogen and oxygen molecules. When injected in a vaporous state to the intake air of an internal combustion engine, the resultant heat of compression (on the compression stroke of the engine) breaks down the nitrous oxide compound into inert nitrogen and free oxygen available to support the combustion of extra fuel. This means more fuel can be burned than air alone would support. Burning more fuel releases more heat, which creates more expansion of the working fluid (mostly nitrogen) in the cylinder for more pressure on the piston. The result is more power.

Air/fuel in nitrous
The chemically correct nitrous to gasoline ratio is 9.649:1, but that is too lean to run safely. The chemically correct air to gasoline ratio is 14.7:1, but at wide open throttle, we cannot run that lean without going lean. The problem is that every bit of oxygen does not find and mix with every bit of gasoline. Same goes for nitrous, you need a richer mixture to better the chances of the nitrous mixing with fuel. If a nitrous engine runs lean, it can destroy the engine in a matter of seconds. There must be enough fuel for the nitrous to react with, if there isn't, temperatures rise rapidly. The oxygen that couldn't react with fuel will oxidize any parts that get hot enough, and the next thing in line to burn is aluminum, so don't run lean.

I plan on running a NX 100 shot on my Cobra.