SortaFlush

Case closed, results on last page.


Alright guys, heres the run down.

I have a 1996 Honda Civic LX four door. It is bonestock drive train wise. It is just lowered, fog lamps and wheels. I just recently got this car. I haven't done any work on it, except for maintance items (fluid changes) The fog lights, are wired into the parking lights, however it has a switch too........that lights up but doesnt turn the fogs on or off.

Now, heres what I've noticed since day one (a week ago)

With a full load (i.e,) A/c on, radio on and all of the lights on, it would have a normal brightness all the way around, but as soon as I came up to a stop its like voltage dropped, quite a bit. With the brake pedal pressed at a stop light and the vehicle idling, the lights would dim down, as I took off from the stop light...i could also hear a winding noise through my speakers, like they were getting more power or something.

This is where I believe when all of my problems had started. I was in my work parking lot, I turned really sharp to turn around and both of my headlamps (lowbeams) blew at the same time. I replaced the bulbs, everything was fine. The next morning, I went to start my car and it had a stone dead battery. So I replaced it (looked old and shitty anyway) then, same problem next time upon starting after a few hours of it sitting. I jumped it, put on a multimeter.

At idle, the voltage was 12.88 consistent, give it about 2k rpms and it would go up to about 13.4 with no load. With A/c on, highbeams and radio, it would be at 11.2 at idle and 12.9 at 2k rpms. I also tested the voltage coming off the alternator itself..and its only 12 volts. It seems as if it isn't charging worth a fuck. I think, I have a draw somewhere, but the technicians at my shop think I have gotten and installed a faulty alternator. I got to work this morning at 8am, I went to try and start it at 1040am and it was dead. I just put a remanufactured alternator in last night..

But, I'm still having the same problem. I just don't know where to start or go now. All of the fuses are fine. I'm about to install another alternator, I suspect it POSSIBLY could have a failed internal regulator and I just got a shit reman one. Hopefully all goes well tonight. Let me know what you guys think..

TurboEG8

its probably your E.L.D.

SortaFlush

Doesn't that mean I have to replace the whole fuse box assembly that is next to the battery?

SortaFlush

Replaced the E.L.D,

voltage seems a little better. However, It's still not charging over 14 volts. Staying near 13.4 with no load.

Kris.Is.Foamin

Voltage regulator from the alt?

SortaFlush

It's internal, that's why I'm going to re-replace the alternator again tonight.


I also FOUND a fog lamp relay, that the plastic casing was broken....and rubbing against the metal chassis. Idk if that was causing a short or not. But, I'm letting my car sit in the bay for a few hours to see if the battery dies instantaneously again.

SortaFlush

I have a real bad parasitic draw when the car is off. Bitch is sucking my battery down, fucking quick.

Fabrik8

Ok, pull all the fuses, and everything else you can easily get to. You need a multimeter that can measure current, which is pretty common.

Check the fused circuits first, because they're the easiest. Multimeters which measure current go in series with the load, and the current passes through the multimeter (which is different than how voltage measurements are taken). So the easy thing to do is put one probe in each fuse holder terminal, so the multimeter takes the place of the fuse. Check all of the circuits that way, with the ignition off so none of the loads are turned on. Once you find which circuit is the problem, then you can try to isolate the cause.

From past experience, I would look at the modified wiring first. I've seen some stuff on people's cars that have seriously frightened me. Anyway, take a look at the fog light wiring first.

About the alternator: I have a suspicion that the battery has been damaged from repeated charge/discharge cycles, probably before you bought the car, and the alternator is having a tough time trying to charge the battery. If you disconnect the battery while the car is running, does the charging voltage go up? I wouldn't be so quick to blame the alternator, I don't think it's the problem. Also, it doesn't matter where you measure the alternator voltage from, it will be almost identical (plus or minus a few mV) unless you have a ground or power problem (like corrosion).

Also, take the bulbs out of the foglights, or disconnect them completely, whichever is easier. This purpose of this is to get rid of the current load from the bulbs. If the foglights are getting power from somewhere they shouldn't be, that can fuck up a lot of stuff.

SortaFlush

Took the fog light wiring out, all of it.


The test light was bright on my battery still. I don't know what to fucking do right now. I don't have anybody to "assist" in my diagnosis. While I'm pulling fuses, it would be nice for somebody to be able to tell me whether the test light is going dim or not. It's tough doing this shit by your self.

I replace the E.L.D, Alternator and battery. So all of those components are good. I know something, somewhere is fucked up. It's killing me. I will hopefully have it figured out tomorrow.

Fabrik8

A test light is the worst, most useless diagnosis tool you can get for something like this. You need a multimeter. I've never owned a test light, but I've used them in a pinch, and they make me angry.