Going with a LS crank and rods will give you a little bit more torque, tends to pull slightly from top end and tends to slide your power band down a bit. Also you increase piston speed, less TDC dwell time, cylinder side loading, more load on the mains and more enertia as the piston tries to slow down before starting it's down stroke.
Basicly the more you increase stroke & decrease rod lenght, the more you affect the for mentioned affects.
Of course decrease stroke and increase rod lenght will give you the opposite affects.

This is why engine builders play with different cranks and custom rod lenghts.

Opinions will always differ about how rod/stroke ratio affect and engine. But if you were ever to get into engine dynamics maybe then you would understand a little bit more about why this does this and that does that.

 

that suprisingly makes a bit of sense to me.... That almost makes me want to source up LS rods and crank.... Anyhow here is a question I have a block that sat for a few months how possible is it to restore the block back to good even though it only has a little bit of surface rust....

 

so I should get a set of OS CTR pistons?

 

It's really up to you and want you want. CTR pistons are great pistons for being OEM, if you are going with that, then I would say yes...go OS CTR's.

As far as the block goes...a little rust on the cylinder walls is no biggie. Especially since you are going to have the block bored oversized.

If you do decide to go the LS crank route, remember to have your rods machine to accept the CTR piston as the GSR/ITR/CTR rods are thinner.

 

GSR crank it is.....

 

Im about 800 miles into a ls motor with usdm itr pistons, 30 thousands shaved off of the head.. Dunkum's machine shop did all the work. It was like 80 dollars two get the pistons on the ls rods. I did a compression check on it the other day and all went from 235 to 245 psi.. I have it in a crx and it pulls good for being untuned.

 

so what is the compression ratio? Sorry but those numbers don't mean much to me because I don't know how to read those #'s in that format.

 

Ultimately, it all comes down to what you want. A better question to ask yourself would be...How much power am I trying to put down? Once you figure out your Hp/Tq goal, then build the setup accordingly. Do you plan on driving this setup daily?

 

Tried two different compression calculators C-speed says 11.1 and another say 11.6

 

I read the first post:


With that said. Why go with OEM parts on an NA build? One of your biggest gains would be to go with light weight forged internals. The lighter rotational mass well net better times per HP.