what is yalls opinon on a block guard trying to see if i should get one for my high compression nitrous build.

 

instead of buying a block guard why not go with posting a block. i think it is a little cheaper and you can do the work yourself. with a slip in you might have to get it welded in or you might have to get it machined. but i might be wrong.

 

do not use a block gaurd.

 

For a daily, I wouldn't use a block guard. If you do, however, you will probably notice higher water temps, and you MUST have the cylinders honed after it's installed to re-round each cylinder. As always, everyone has their own opinion, but I've done this on three motors and have noticed the above traits.

Unless you've done it before, I wouldn't post it yourself either.

 

^ i agree have it honed first then installed and you will have hotter coolent temps but personally you dont need block gaurd if you have to go that rout then do sleeves but the key is a good tune block gaurd has been known to egg shape the cyl so my advice is get your nitrous all stright and hooked up and get it tuned really good and you shouldnt have a problem note: detination is not your friend

 

You mean install the block guard THEN bore/hone. If properly tuned, a GSR sleeve will take just about all the high compression NA you would want. A bore/hone is the -proper- way to go about it, so dont skimp out on that either.

A very common overlooked part is a damper. If you're going to go with Eagle rods (most do unfortunately), their consistancy on the big bore leave little to be desired. Either way, reduce your crankshaft harmonics with the use of a damper, either ATI or Fluidampr, I prefer Fluidampr (fluid) vice ATI (rubber bands) personally. Though they both have their advantages/disadvantages just like any choice of options.

 

/thread

 

There isn't anything wrong with a PROPERLY INSTALLED block guard. You need more than a hone after install also, a bore is pretty much mandatory to ensure consistant diameter and roundness.. Weld-in block guards are the way to go if you're going that route, else just shitcan the idea of a blockguard and get some sleeves. I'd still sleeve it if you can afford it, there is the least amount of comprimises and best performance.

Coolant temp rise depends a lot on the block guard and the block/head jacket design. Some block guards work ok for cooling, some don't. Most still tend to limit cooling flow right at the head interface and make some local hotspots.

Pinning is ghetto and doesn't do anything except keep the cylinders from moving around a little. The block will still deflect and let the cylinders move, the support just isn't there.

Whether you need it or not for what you're looking to do is debatable though.