battery relocation tips.
08-16-2003, 01:40 PM
#1
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battery relocation tips.
Well i'm looking to relocate the battery to the rear of my car.
Looking for either tips, or parts lists. Links could work to.
I see alot of cheap battery reloction kits where you just ground in the back near the battery.
And most kits don't have either a fuse or fusible links.
I know what needs to be done, but since i haven't done this before i'm cautious.
Now i'm not going to worry about having a battery cut off switch on it this year. I just want it relocated.. So any help will be very appreciated.
Looking for either tips, or parts lists. Links could work to.
I see alot of cheap battery reloction kits where you just ground in the back near the battery.
And most kits don't have either a fuse or fusible links.
I know what needs to be done, but since i haven't done this before i'm cautious.
Now i'm not going to worry about having a battery cut off switch on it this year. I just want it relocated.. So any help will be very appreciated.
08-16-2003, 07:23 PM
#3
It has 4 Doors...
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Richard,
Taylor that does plug wires and all makes a battery relocation kit. I know we have them up at the shop...the only thing you have to add is the battery and the wires and that would be it. You could opt to run the power under the ride by the frameor through the interior whichever you think would be easier on your ride.
http://crx.honda-perf.org/articles/battrep/battrep.html
I think this had some info on it as well:
http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/
Hope this might help man....
Taylor that does plug wires and all makes a battery relocation kit. I know we have them up at the shop...the only thing you have to add is the battery and the wires and that would be it. You could opt to run the power under the ride by the frameor through the interior whichever you think would be easier on your ride.
http://crx.honda-perf.org/articles/battrep/battrep.html
I think this had some info on it as well:
http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/
Hope this might help man....
Last edited by Whtehnda93DXSdn; 08-16-2003 at 07:38 PM.
08-16-2003, 09:29 PM
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If you want to run at a track, you'll need the kill switch. But if you just want to relocate it, I'm sure summit or nopi or some other online store will have a nice little relocation kit or something.
08-17-2003, 04:32 AM
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this would depend on how you wanna do it...the wrong or right way. you could use the generic method and get a bunch of 4awg wire and some ends and a battery box. i like to calculate >.25vdc loss (max) over a run of wire, but hey! i'm a geek! you will also want to use an Optima battery if you will have the battery within the passenger compartment. make sure to use a fuse (not a slo-blo type) and use as large a fuse as you can get. you may want to use two of them: one @ the battery and one @ the firewall where you go through. make sure to insulate the wire so as to ward-off any abrasions or whatever. you can use a star grounding method to insure a good -12vdc connection.
no, this method doesn't cause batteries to get 'eaten-up'. no, star grounding a rear mounted battery doesn't cause extra electrical noise...only if you don't run the wires properly near audio cables.
no, this method doesn't cause batteries to get 'eaten-up'. no, star grounding a rear mounted battery doesn't cause extra electrical noise...only if you don't run the wires properly near audio cables.
Last edited by ToyotaTechGeek; 08-17-2003 at 04:35 AM.
08-17-2003, 10:35 AM
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What FMIC?????
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Yeah i saw how he did it in the CRX... thats just cheap.
Well my plan was 1/0 (both positive and negative) wire from battery to distribution blocks up front. Optima battery of course mounted where my back seat usd to be.
You think i should use fuses over a fusible links though? Just carry a bunch with me?
There are no good battery relocation kits out there.. they are all some cheap box with 4 guage wire.... thats just cheap, and i wouldn't trust it..
Later to add a kill switch and a capaciter.
Don't think i'll get to the track any this year so i'll add the kill switch this winter. But need to relocate my battery so i can relocate other shit to the new space that will provide so i can fit my front mount..
If its not one thing its another.
Well my plan was 1/0 (both positive and negative) wire from battery to distribution blocks up front. Optima battery of course mounted where my back seat usd to be.
You think i should use fuses over a fusible links though? Just carry a bunch with me?
There are no good battery relocation kits out there.. they are all some cheap box with 4 guage wire.... thats just cheap, and i wouldn't trust it..
Later to add a kill switch and a capaciter.
Don't think i'll get to the track any this year so i'll add the kill switch this winter. But need to relocate my battery so i can relocate other shit to the new space that will provide so i can fit my front mount..
If its not one thing its another.
08-18-2003, 12:48 PM
#7
jdm
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its easy. all u need is the box and 13 ft of 4gauge wire adn another ground. ground the battery in the trunk with the original ground still under the hood touching some metal and shove one end of the wire into the positive clamp and put electrical tape all around it. then run it under the carpet to the back and its done. fairy easy and cost me less then $20.
08-19-2003, 02:04 PM
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use a large value ANL fuse. or use a large value circuit breaker.
1/0 could be too much and could cause poor flow. a kill switch adds servicability. 4AWG isn't necessarily cheap, it's the quality of the actual wire. i have used 4AWG in multi-strand,oxygen free copper with silicone jacketing. not cheap! anyway, the length of the run of wire will make the most difference in the size wire you use.
1/0 could be too much and could cause poor flow. a kill switch adds servicability. 4AWG isn't necessarily cheap, it's the quality of the actual wire. i have used 4AWG in multi-strand,oxygen free copper with silicone jacketing. not cheap! anyway, the length of the run of wire will make the most difference in the size wire you use.
08-19-2003, 04:39 PM
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well 2 awg is what i'm looking at now..
Price doesn't bother me as long as it works well.
My thoughts were to use fuses at the distibution point with the starter being wired without a fuse.
While i'm at it i'll be replacing all the grounds i can and adding a few while i'm at it.
Just need a good source to find wire now.
ToyotaTechGeek.. anything else.. this place has been the most help outta the 4 forums i have asked .
Price doesn't bother me as long as it works well.
My thoughts were to use fuses at the distibution point with the starter being wired without a fuse.
While i'm at it i'll be replacing all the grounds i can and adding a few while i'm at it.
Just need a good source to find wire now.
ToyotaTechGeek.. anything else.. this place has been the most help outta the 4 forums i have asked .
08-19-2003, 06:16 PM
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well, fuse really close to the point at which the wire will enter or go through a firewall or any other sheetmetal.
you can get the 2AWG @ a stereo shop or a welding supply or a marine supply. make sure to put it in some split loom tubing or the sort in order to protect it from abrasions and to provide a last ditch effort in the insulation department. if you can, weld or braze the ends onto the wire and use some good heat shrink tube. 3M is good stuff. you may consider using a dual layer of the heat shrink to provide some stress relief for the wire ends.
when doing the grounds, make sure to sand the chassis points till the spot is shiny, spray with some CRC or other lubricant, then wipe, and then either respray or if underhood, coat with some lith grease or something. one more tip about chassis grounds and add-on grounds...lock washers! good luck!
you can get the 2AWG @ a stereo shop or a welding supply or a marine supply. make sure to put it in some split loom tubing or the sort in order to protect it from abrasions and to provide a last ditch effort in the insulation department. if you can, weld or braze the ends onto the wire and use some good heat shrink tube. 3M is good stuff. you may consider using a dual layer of the heat shrink to provide some stress relief for the wire ends.
when doing the grounds, make sure to sand the chassis points till the spot is shiny, spray with some CRC or other lubricant, then wipe, and then either respray or if underhood, coat with some lith grease or something. one more tip about chassis grounds and add-on grounds...lock washers! good luck!